Lyonhead wrote:

If you just have the car on tickover and press the the button on and off you will hear a distinct different tone coming out of the exhausts, allow 1 to 2 seconds in between operation of the button. The louder tone is when the valves are open. As I stated though, even with the switch off (valves closed) they will automatically open over 3000rpm anyway.
The burning smell could be from the exhaust getting hot and " burning " off the newness if you know what I mean but you'll soon get rid of that by the time you've finished running about in it tomorrow as there will certainly be more than 53miles on the clock by the end of the day

I have the MY17 SVR and pressing the button on tickover doesn't change the tone you can only tell when you rev it.
Try it in dynamic though as I'm sure it gets loader again ontop of auto and the button pressed so maybe my17 SVR got a software tweak.

The smell I'm sure is the newness burning off things like breaks and exhaust when that smell is gone its not new anymore

Thanks for nice comments and advice guys, much appreciated...
I'm sure it's just the 'newness' and will settle down over the next few days, an excuse to take it out of the garage I guess!

GJW1 wrote:

Lyonhead wrote:

If you just have the car on tickover and press the the button on and off you will hear a distinct different tone coming out of the exhausts, allow 1 to 2 seconds in between operation of the button. The louder tone is when the valves are open. As I stated though, even with the switch off (valves closed) they will automatically open over 3000rpm anyway.
The burning smell could be from the exhaust getting hot and " burning " off the newness if you know what I mean but you'll soon get rid of that by the time you've finished running about in it tomorrow as there will certainly be more than 53miles on the clock by the end of the day

I have the MY17 SVR and pressing the button on tickover doesn't change the tone you can only tell when you rev it.
Try it in dynamic though as I'm sure it gets loader again ontop of auto and the button pressed so maybe my17 SVR got a software tweak.

The smell I'm sure is the newness burning off things like breaks and exhaust when that smell is gone its not new anymore

Lyonhead wrote:

Hi Jimbo, congrats and welcome to the club...

2: you need an internet connection to get satellite image on the screen but looking through the manual it states that if used all the time will eat up data.

Hope this helps

I only had the car Friday so only put a couple of
Hundred miles on it.

I fitted a data sim no problem at all although haven't played around much with it other than hot spotting for the iPad.

Issues so far are emergency braking warning that it can't initialise and also forward alert not active with the same error which happened today but when turning the car off and back on it resets but then it came back so not sure what that is.

Sounds good, I've only done 75 miles! SO, can you remove the sim easily too? As per other thread how do you keep favourite radio stations on the screen permanently???!

Cant help you with the radio stuff not really had it on.

As for the sim its easy to remove if you push it down a bit when its in it springs back up enough to just grip it.

Lyonhead wrote:

Hi Jimbo, congrats and welcome to the club.....

To answer your questions,

1: It is recommended to run in the vehicle for 3000 Kms and to do the usual things such as no full throttle on starting and normal driving, avoid high engine revs, avoid labouring the engine in too high or low gears, gradually increase engine and road speeds, avoid continuous operation at high engine speed and abrupt stops, avoid frequent cold starts followed by short distance driving, take longer journeys and dont participate in track days, sports driving schools or any similar events.

2: you need an internet connection to get satellite image on the screen but looking through the manual it states that if used all the time will eat up data.

Hope this helps

I think that running-in routine is a load of tosh which might have applied to a Vauxhall Viva but which does not apply now. Component tolerances are so much better than they used to be and only minimal running in - taking it a little easy for the first few hundred miles - is required.

What is required - and throughout the car's life - is to let the engine warm up before giving it the beans. That's to do with letting the oil reach something approaching working temperature and this in turn is more to do with starting from very low temperatures.

I have a Porsche GT3 which has a blue warming up light and associated lower rev limit. The blue light goes off at an oil temperature of about 50C at which point Porsche are happy for the engine to be revved to its limit of 9000 rpm.

The GT3 and SVR both use very low viscosity oils which means they are fully effective at low temperatures.

The message therefore is that you don't really need to do anything special in the way of running in the engine. Mark

SVR in Estoril Blue

Hi Mark,
I quoted EXACTLY what is written in the Land Rover Range Rover Sport manual. Yes I agree that some companies, such as Porsche, have different 'running in' procedures BUT, Land Rover Range Rover Sport manual advises what I wrote.
Now, Jimbo095 asked the question as he wants to keep his new purchase, which he obviously is extremely pleased and proud of, in as good as condition as he can possibly make it without any risk of damage whatsoever and I sent him what is written in the manual.
Jimbo095 does not have to follow it, nobody does and others may think it's 'tosh' but clearly Land Rover don't otherwise it wouldn't be written in the 2016/2017 manual.
Also, I did actually have a Vauxhall Viva and blew up 2 engines in the time I owned it , and that car was the cheapest, nastiest piece of I ever owned but after parting with over a £100,000 for a new vehicle and the makers advise to do things why not take heed and follow it. No hardship really but could possibly end up a nightmare if not followed.

Yes, but you might reasonably expect a car costing £100k to be better built than your Viva was and as a result be built to tighter tolerances and so require less running in. Running in is all about completing the final machining and component matching which the manufacturing process could not. The days are long gone when a micrometer was accurate enough to measure machining tolerances.

In the old days, cars were filled with a low viscosity oil and needed an oil change after 1000 miles to clear out the running in detritus. Not any more. Does the SVR require such an oil change after 1000 miles? It does not.

I've seen engines come straight off the line, hot tested at maximum rpm until the exhaust manifolds glow red hot; there is a prescribed testing procedure but once it's done, the engine is good to go. Hot testing is expensive and time consuming and Porsche these days simply do cold compression and sealing tests to detect problems early in the manufacturing process before all the ancillaries go on, thereby making fault rectification easier.

I use Porsche as an example simply because I've seen it at first hand but I doubt that Ford's assembly processes (and their suppliers' machining processes) at Bridgend are any less stringent.

As for the words in the driver's manual, they've been cut and pasted for years from generation to generation. Back in the days of the P6, they were probably relevant and should in addition have advised praying that the engine didn't seize in the meantime. Today, how, precisely, do you get an SVR engine to labour or stall under load? It's an automatic and even in manual mode will shift down if needed. Those words do not reflect the current manufacturing and assembly reality and are overdue for a re-write.

I stand by what I wrote. Just take it easy for the first few hundred miles (I deemed my SVR fully run in after a weekend away in Wales) and, for the lifetime of the car, make sure the engine is moderately warmed up before extending it. Mark

SVR in Estoril Blue

Surely a lot today comes down to what used to be called "mechanical sympathy and common sense" - don't make the engine labour in high gears at low RPM and avoid revs over 3000 (for a petrol engine) in the first 1000 miles. Auto gear boxes help a lot in avoiding these things but I get the impression that avoiding trying out the acoustics of the exhaust system is hard! However, what happens in the PDI bay that you don't see may nullify all of the above................... it must be a huge temptation for the apprentice who drives a 1st gen Vauxhall Nova diesel to try out the rasping exhaust with a quick high rev blip or two....... 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Cheers guys, appreciate all advice... The car only has 100 or so miles on it but I got a little paranoid with the burning smell but just assumed it was the exhaust bedding in as happened with my previous new car. As I said, I didn't go bananas just accelerated enthusiastically a couple of times as a pal wanted to 'hear' the noise, engine was fully up to temp etc. I did feel a little guilt after if that makes sense, funny, I never had that feeling in the demonstrator!!

Tim in Scotland wrote:

Surely a lot today comes down to what used to be called "mechanical sympathy and common sense" - don't make the engine labour in high gears at low RPM and avoid revs over 3000 (for a petrol engine) in the first 1000 miles. Auto gear boxes help a lot in avoiding these things but I get the impression that avoiding trying out the acoustics of the exhaust system is hard! However, what happens in the PDI bay that you don't see may nullify all of the above................... it must be a huge temptation for the apprentice who drives a 1st gen Vauxhall Nova diesel to try out the rasping exhaust with a quick high rev blip or two.......

Interesting read, although I'm somewhat sceptical

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

A few similar theories out there but I guess there will always be different opinions, makes good debate I guess...

Understandably much more emphasis on reaching adequate engine temps before any spirited driving...

It's worth mentioning too that the exhaust button works also when the car is in Dynamic mode, effectively turning the system back to the switching system whilst leaving the car itself in dynamic mode. Particularly useful when pressing on but not wanting to announce your arrival from a distance.

For those of you that don't know, there is also a quiet mode start option. Ign on, wait five seconds (car rcognises you want a closed valve start), go for start.

Running-in wise, well I've always done it but then that comes from working with engines for 20 years. We always do it on the dynos so why not in the vehicles?
That said, we do run some especially harsh engine tests just to prove they can take the abuse anyway!