RRSPORT.CO.UK

    Forum   Gallery   Shop   Sponsors
Home > Technical > Inlet Manifold TDV6
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
 
Sirrel Squirrel



Member Since: 16 Jun 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 25

Inlet Manifold TDV6

I've got an issue with my MY11 TDV6 RRS where I can hear air escaping when hitting over around 1800 RPM and the car goes into restricted performance mode. I took the car to an indy garage and they said it was the exhaust manifold, which is a body off job however looking into it further it is actually the inlet manifold, which is a fairly common issue.

Question is, can I do this fix myself or how much should I expect to pay for an indy to do it?

Post #513090 Thu Dec 29 2016 9:58am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 4943

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

Is it the 3.0?

Exhaust is common problem.

How do you know it's the inlet ? Where is it leaking from?

Post #513098 Thu Dec 29 2016 11:35am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Sirrel Squirrel



Member Since: 16 Jun 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 25

The whooshing air sound is coming from the driver's side, roughly in line with the middle of the steering wheel and side grill near the top of the engine.

I found this thread earlier on another forum and it does appear to be the same issue - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3...blems.html

There's also a TSB out for it:

http://docdro.id/k7c5DY4




Post #513101 Thu Dec 29 2016 11:56am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 4943

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

It's not a five minute job to change the inlet.

Remove the Y inlet at the front
disconnect injector pipes
remove injectors (and mark which pos they came from) Can be difficult to remove. Twisting helps. Plug holes
unbolt fuel rail
unbolt fuel rail bracket.

now you can almost get to the inlet bolts.

I think you also need to remove the cambelt cover at the front as there is a bolt or 2 behind that.
Fan needs to come off, which can be a right pain.
Slip Aux belt off.
Remove some tensioners

A job for a good LR indy

Post #513122 Thu Dec 29 2016 2:54pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Disco_Mikey



Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport Supercharged HSE Santorini Black

It's about a day's work, in all reality. Manifold is £180 + VAT, from memory, and a few quid for injector washers

Thumbs Up

Post #513170 Thu Dec 29 2016 9:31pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RRSporter



Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 61

Hi just had this issue. P006A-00 code. As DM says it's a days work. Thus allow £900 for Indy or £1300 for LR. Plus the wait to sort. Like me it happened between xmas and new year. You could have a go with this method. £6, 2 hours work. 500 miles later, It's solid as a rock and airtight. Was only supposed to be a temp fix but Very Happy






 3.0 SDV6 HSE L494

Post #513320 Sun Jan 01 2017 10:04pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Peanut



Member Since: 31 Jul 2012
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 110

United Kingdom 

I do hope I am reading something wrong here!

The VIN range in this seems to cover my MY 2015 L494.

TECHNICAL BULLETIN
LTB00768v2 30 NOV 2015

Range Rover Sport (LW)
Model Year: 2014-2015
VIN: 600000-621222
Assembly Plant: Solihull
Engine: TDV6 3.0L Diesel Current: MY15 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Aruba Gold, HUD, Meridian 1700w
Gone: RRS TDV6 2007 Stornaway
Gone: P38 2.5 DHSE

Post #513327 Mon Jan 02 2017 10:03am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 4943

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

so what's going on in the first the last pic?

Are you creating a vacuum ?

Post #513331 Mon Jan 02 2017 11:54am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
lazysteve



Member Since: 17 Dec 2011
Location: Bulgaria, Nessebar
Posts: 13

Bulgaria 2011 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Santorini Black

Hi, had this on mine. First left side, was replaced under warranty. 3 months later the right side went. Paid for the second one as warranty had just finished. All in was 750 pounds, done at dealer in Bulgaria.

Post #513336 Mon Jan 02 2017 12:15pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RRSporter



Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 61

Andy K wrote:
so what's going on in the first the last pic?

Are you creating a vacuum ?

Hi Andy
No just creating a diy version of a smoke test to find the leak. It's dead obvious though and doesn't need much pressure at all and a bit of wd40 or leak detector around affected area when pressurising with air.

The idea for this came from this link so I cobbled up what I could from my garage as everywhere was shut between xmas and new year, not because I was being a cheapskate. I needed a solution in 24 hours!
 3.0 SDV6 HSE L494

Post #513382 Mon Jan 02 2017 6:55pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RRSporter



Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 61

Btw the tech is not quite right in his video. As the engine is turbocharged the manifold pressure will be greater than the air outside it so air is blown out of the manifold not sucked in. It's this process which turns a hairline crack into a gaping hole when the engine is under higher load demand. For this reason it also needs a bit of pressure to show the leak up properly. It's right along the 90 degree radius of the manifold cover above the middle cylinder. You do have to cut away the bottom insulation in the middle cylinder area to see the crack. 3.0 SDV6 HSE L494

Post #513383 Mon Jan 02 2017 7:02pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 4943

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

Arh I see Cool Cool

Post #513391 Mon Jan 02 2017 8:03pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Sirrel Squirrel



Member Since: 16 Jun 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 25

Thanks for the replies, just waiting on a couple of indy's to get back to me.

What have you done in those pics RRSporter? Looks like glue?

Post #513427 Tue Jan 03 2017 11:52am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RRSporter



Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 61

Araldite rapid 2 part. The key component is the patch which had an almost identical radius to the manifold meaning a very small gap between the 2 plastic layers for the araldite to bond to. It was a section out of a screwdriver tray. All I could find but in fact was spot on. 👍. This won't come apart. The only way of failure is if the crack starts further along ie around the front or rear cylinder area. But these areas are supported by the ends of the inlet manifold which is the reason it fails in the centre usually as its least supported. 3.0 SDV6 HSE L494

Post #513428 Tue Jan 03 2017 12:15pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
ABSport



Member Since: 14 Aug 2014
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 698

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Autobiography Santorini Black
Re: Inlet Manifold TDV6

Sirrel Squirrel wrote:
I've got an issue with my MY11 TDV6 RRS where I can hear air escaping when hitting over around 1800 RPM and the car goes into restricted performance mode. I took the car to an indy garage and they said it was the exhaust manifold, which is a body off job however looking into it further it is actually the inlet manifold, which is a fairly common issue.

Question is, can I do this fix myself or how much should I expect to pay for an indy to do it?


I had the same issue, mine was a fairly quick fix took it to Land Rover and there was a stuck actuator its above the drivers wheel arch. I thought Turbo etc body off etc Big Cry
Car was plugged in took out on road test actuator cleaned and all reset, I also had oil in the air filter, once all this was cleaned it's been fine since. Took it back last week and no oil in air box and no warning lights car runs perfect. Thumbs Up

I was told to stop driving around like miss daisy and open the car up use it for what it is, tbh I've never thrashed it in 3 years but now I open it up every day Whistle

Post #513468 Tue Jan 03 2017 7:26pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2005-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
RRSPORT.CO.UK RSS Feed - All Forums

Switch to Mobile site