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 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > How To - AMK Suspension Compressor Replacement |
 
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Dundee, Scotland Posts: 4449   
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I don't know if this will be of any interest to anyone over here, but I posted it up over on Disco3 (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic84165.html). It is (if you have not guessed already) a guide to replace the air suspension compressor, with the new style AMK compressor. It was fitted to a Disco 3, but the procedure is exactly the same for the RRS. Enjoy
New compressor and bracket New upper and lower covers New compressor relay Various pipework, new pipe union, and a brass union Various bolts and screws The only thing I would say is missing from this kit, are the 3 captive nuts that hold the bracket onto the chassis, which will more than likely break when removing the bolts.
Part number is RYH500170, and you need 3 of them Start by removing lower cover, which is held on by 3 bolts. One at the front, one at the rear, and one in the bottom of the cover, as pictured
Next, if the inlet and exhaust pipes come out, fair enough, but they both need cut anyway to fit the new pipework. Cut them as close to the ridge in the pipe as possible. The more you have, the easier it will be later on
Remove the pipe into the blue union on the dryer. This one should be quick release, push in the blue collar, and pull the pipe out. If the pipe is seized into the dryer, just cut it. The pipe is replaced too There may be a bit of air pressure released when this pipe is pulled out
Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors, and remove the 2 lower bolts, that you can just about make out here.
The top bolt is very awkward to get at. You need just the right length of extension to get onto the bolt head. It is directly above the left hand lower bolt, roughly here. Alternatively, lever the old bracket off the chassis. If it breaks, it breaks. It is no longer needed. Or the captive nut may break up, and the compressor can be removed from the car.
And as seen with the compressor off, for reference
Roughly how the inlet/exhaust pipework sits when fitted to the car
Pull the old top cover out of the way. Now, the pipe (with the blue collar) that was pushed into the dryer needs to be replaced. It is at the front of the valve block inside the compressor cover. Undo the old union (12mm spanner) and discard pipe and union
New pipe on top
Fit the new union, and pull the white plastic insert out. It is only there to keep both part of said union together for fitting.
Place the top cover roughly in the correct place. Loosely fit the new compressor and bracket to the chassis. As you can see, you can now get access to the top bolt with a ratchet spanner, which is much easier than before. Land Rover must have thought about this! I found it easier to only fit the top bolt and let the compressor hang down a bit, to allow access to the inlet/exhaust pipework
The inlet pipe (8mm pipe) gets joined as seen here, and routed over the top of the compressor, and into the inlet on the side of the compressor as seen here:
The exhaust pipe (6mm pipe) gets joined as seen here. I would advise to cut it a bit lower than I have done here, as it was a bit awkward joining it together.
Now, back to the other pipe. Fit the new pipe. The end with the 180 degree loop goes into the valve block, and the other end fits into the new compressor
Join both connectors up, and refit the lower cover. In the bag there are 2 black screws, and a 10mm bolt. Both screws go in the outside tabs of the cover, and the 10mm is fitted to the bracket. It cuts its own thread on the way in. Fit the new relay. It lives in the engine bay fuse box. Clear fault codes if you have an FCR. If you don't, the compressor should still run anyway, but there will be a fault stored in the memory of the ECU. I can confirm that the compressor will still run on the old software, and even after an extended road test, there were no warning lights, and seemed to be no issues. The customer has been informed that there will be a software update in the near future, and will rebook when that is available. It may have been my imagination, but the car seemed to pick itself up from access height a lot quicker than the original compressor ever did, and seems to run a fair bit quieter, as it is mounted on rubber mounts, and is sprung on the bracket. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated 
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Fri Sep 28 2012 7:11pm |
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| shepp Member Since: 15 Nov 2010 Location: Bingley Posts: 440 
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Great write up disco mikey
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Fri Oct 05 2012 10:01am |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Dundee, Scotland Posts: 4449
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IIRC, the new one is cheaper than the old one |
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Fri Oct 05 2012 10:11am |
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| shepp Member Since: 15 Nov 2010 Location: Bingley Posts: 440
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Nice one.
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Fri Oct 05 2012 12:10pm |
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| shepp Member Since: 15 Nov 2010 Location: Bingley Posts: 440
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Nice one.
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Fri Oct 05 2012 12:10pm |
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| RRS_PAT Member Since: 16 Dec 2010 Location: South Posts: 176
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Hi All,
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Mon Dec 03 2012 9:31am |
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| umbertob Member Since: 23 Sep 2005 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 944  
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Just posting this SSM for reference regarding replacement of compressor from Hitachi to AMK:
Also, for the... 3 of us with Rover Specialties rock sliders on their Sport (but the same issue may affect Disco3/4 owners), or owners with similar rock sliders extending under the chassis to protect the compressor, be aware that the new bracket of the AMK unit hangs a bit lower than the old design. The bracket may interfere when attempting to re-fit the sliders after replacement, even with the lower plastic cover removed. My 2013 LR4 is currently being fitted for Tactical 4x4 rock sliders (similar to the Rover Specialties') and the company is manufacturing a slightly modified bracket for the AMK compressor, made of thinner steel, which will allow the compressor to sit a bit higher within the upper cover and eliminate the issue. Here is a photo of the original bracket, and template of the modified one they are fabricating for me (and for other owners of their sliders with the new compressor fitted): Original bracket:
Modified bracket (template only):
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Mon Mar 18 2013 9:44pm |
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| olikk23 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Manchester Posts: 1 
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Hi,
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Wed Jul 09 2014 4:09pm |
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| liverpool_luke Member Since: 03 Nov 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 7
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I'm sorry to add to an old thred just wanted to ask a question regarding the software update for this, I am going to replace a friend's compressor tomorrow for this newer one following the thred, can I update the software with a hawked at all ? |
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Tue Nov 03 2015 8:41pm |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Dundee, Scotland Posts: 4449
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I don't believe the Hawkeye is capable of any reflashing |
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Tue Nov 03 2015 9:56pm |
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| liverpool_luke Member Since: 03 Nov 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 7
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Anyone around Liverpool area that can update it for me?
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Thu Nov 05 2015 8:53am |
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| liverpool_luke Member Since: 03 Nov 2015 Location: Liverpool Posts: 7
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Supposedly had the software updated by small Indy garage , I have now changed the compressor twice and still the same fault, can anyone adivce what the software number should be? |
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Sat Dec 05 2015 8:43am |
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| Lost for Words Member Since: 15 Jan 2015 Location: Warminster, Wiltshire Posts: 1477
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There are two software versions for the AMK - 9H22-5A919-AA and 9H2M-5A919-AA. |
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Sat Dec 05 2015 9:54am |
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| Disco_Mikey Member Since: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Dundee, Scotland Posts: 4449
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And they are specific between ARC/non-ARC |
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Sat Dec 05 2015 10:06am |
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