Hi Guys,

Here's how I changed my front wheel bearings. Larger pics are available in my gallery.

Tools:

Jack
Wheel Wrench
3 Tonne Axle Stands
32mm Socket
21mm AF Socket or ring end of spanner
15mm Socket
8mm Spanner
13mm Spanner
17mm Spanner
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Hammer/Mallet
Centre Punch
Chisel (flat)
T50 Torx
Thin flat bladed screw driver

Time: approx 1 hour

Torque Settings

Hub retaining bolts - 115nm
Disc support bolt - 35nm
Caliper Carrier (21mm bolts) - 275nm
Caliper bolts - 35nm
ABS sensor bolt - approx 20nm
Hub Nut - 230nm
Wheel bolts - 140nm

Prep:
Lower vehicle to access height
Lock vehicle in access height
Apply Electronic Park Brake (EPB)

Step 1
Using a thin, flat bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the centre cap out.



Step 2
Using the 32mm socket, loosen the hub nut but do not remove



Step 3
Loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts


Step 4
Lower vehicle to access height and lock. Apply EPB then jack the vehicle up remembering to use axle stands to support the weight.




Step 5
Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel

Step 6
Loosen the 13mm caliper bolts top and bottom. Use the 17mm spanner to hold the inner nuts still. Do not let the caliper hang by the flexi hose. I found that resting it on the ARB worked for me.



Step 7

Using a 21mm AF socket or ring end of a 21mm spanner, loosen the carrier bolts top and bottom and remove the carrier.



Step 8
Using the T50 torx, loosen the disc support bolt and pull the disc off.



You should be left with this



Step 9
Undo the 8mm ABS sensor bolt and carefully wiggle the sensor out.



Step 10
Use a wire brush and plenty of WD40 to clean the threads of the hub retaining bolts. Undo the four 15mm hub retaining bolts.




Step 11
Use the 32mm socket to remove the hub nut you loosened in step 2

Step 12
Push the driveshaft out of the hub. If it does not move then you will need to hammer it out either with a mallet or centre punch.

Step 13
Fit the new hub/bearing and hand tighten the hub nut to pull the driveshaft through.





Step 14
Fit and tighten the hub retaining bolts to 115nm.

Step 15
Fit ABS sensor and tighten 8mm bolt to approx 20nm.

Step 16
Fit disc and tighten disc retaining bolt to 35nm.

Step 17
Fit caliper carrier and tighten the 21mm bolts to 275nm.

Step 18
Fit caliper and tighten 13mm bolts to 35nm.

Step 19
Fit wheel and hand tighten the wheel nuts. Remove the axle stands and lower the car.

Step 20
Tighten hub nut to 230nm (used to be 275 but LR reduced it to 230 to put less stress on the bearings).



Step 21
Jack up the car. Remove the wheel and make a notch in the hub nut using a flat chisel.



Step 22
Fit wheel and nuts, lower the car and torque tighten wheel nuts to 140nm

Step 23
Fit centre cap


Step 24
Take the locking wheel nut out of the wheel

Step 25
Give yourself a pat on the back

That looks nice and easy  

"Roads ? Where we're going there are no roads." Back to the future.

Excellent run through
I will be changing mine once i get a new torque wrench. As my current one will not go high enough for removing the brembo caliper .

Excellent run through
I will be changing mine once i get a new torque wrench. As my current one will not go high enough for removing the brembo caliper .

shepp wrote:

Excellent run through
I will be changing mine once i get a new torque wrench. As my current one will not go high enough for removing the brembo caliper .

You don't need a torque wrench to remove a bolt, only to put it back with the correct torque But either way, you'll need one indeed  

"Roads ? Where we're going there are no roads." Back to the future.

Indeed you should only use a torque wrench to tighten. Better to use a breaker bar for undoing tough bolts.

mrfrog wrote:

That looks nice and easy

I was thinking quite the opposite given my rather inept technical skills  ON THE WAY: BMW F21 M140i
MERCEDES GL350 - Metallic Navy Blue w/Grey interior

GOING: BMW F31 335D MSport+ xDrive Touring
GONE: Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - Stornaway Grey w/Black Interior (wish we'd kept it )
GONE: BMW F10 520D MSport - Carbon Black
GONE:MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ivory/Grand Black Privacy glass

Good job I'm not too far from you then eh Mr Bean(counter)

Beancounter_74 wrote:

mrfrog wrote:

That looks nice and easy

I was thinking quite the opposite given my rather inept technical skills

Compared to the same on a Land Rover defender, this is positively simple ! 

"Roads ? Where we're going there are no roads." Back to the future.

kav1187 wrote:

Good job I'm not too far from you then eh Mr Bean(counter)

Yup, I know who to call
Hopefully nothing like that will need doing too soon on mine. Only 7k miles on the clock currently  ON THE WAY: BMW F21 M140i
MERCEDES GL350 - Metallic Navy Blue w/Grey interior

GOING: BMW F31 335D MSport+ xDrive Touring
GONE: Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - Stornaway Grey w/Black Interior (wish we'd kept it )
GONE: BMW F10 520D MSport - Carbon Black
GONE:MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ivory/Grand Black Privacy glass

I wouldn't rely onthe LR jack and wheel wrench unless In an absolute emergency as they're made from monkey poo! Bodsys Brake Bible
Software Updates Contact me
RRS Timed Heat/Remote kits - Contact me
BAS Engine Re-maps/ EGR Blank EuIII and EuIV
Clock On The Dash/ SNOTM /3Flash / BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes read\ Gearbox Reset
See it HERE

did my second front wheel bearing today and wanted to say a big thanks for the write up!

It's a pretty simple job. The hardest part was removing the 4 hub bolts. The exposed part of the bolts were a little rough and rusty (even after the wire brush treatment) and so needed a little careful persuasion, lots of WD40 to get them removed. My biggest fear was snapping one, which would have been a nightmare. So I would advise caution in removing these.

I had to remove my wheel to remove the hub bolt because of the distance between the two (couldn't find my extender after the house move). So I had a mate press on the brake to stop the disc turning whilst I was unscrewing it.

I also found that with the Brembo brakes, step 6 & 7 are different. All you need to do is loosen and remove the 21mm caliper ("carrier") bolts, then remove the caliper.

Oh yes, 230nm takes a lot of doing! Phew! I can safely say that the hub bolt is now as tight as a n**s p**sy  Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

Thanks to KAV1187, good instructions list

but oooohhh you make it look so easy to undo that damn driveshaft nut, mines been on for almost ten years !!
I've called in help from my son-in-law, he's younger, fitter, stronger than me

Note for TANLOVERLUKE, it does not really matter if the hub retaining bolt snaps, the broken bits stay in the old assembly you are discarding. new bolts cost me £3.77 today LR part LFC112146

in hindsight i should have bought new bolts and i would advise members to replace these with the hub. good point about the nut  Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

Awesome write up! I was wondering if I needed to press the hubs out and then I came across this little beauty. Cheers