I'd like to clean my engine bay... the engine cleaner I've got says it needs to be washed off with a hose afterwards... I'm a little scared to start spraying water around given some of the stories I've read on here about water damaged wiring and components. Is this a OK to do or would you not recommend it?

Also the under-bonnet insulation? thing (see picture) is pretty grotty... I tried to brush the dirt off but it started to shed black powder like mad everywhere (like it was crumbling) so I've left it for now. Is it possible to clean this (if so how?) or would it be better to just replace it... assuming they are still in production?

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Hi there,

I just gave our sport a big clean up as it was looking seriously tired.

the engine bay was degreased, and cleaned via my dry ice cleaner and then dressed in aerospace 303 protectant.

the insulator was hanging down, so I removed it, machine polished the underneath of the bonnet, steam cleaned the sound insulator on the prochem system and then put all new clips in.

This was the finished article. not bad for a car thats done 88,000 miles.

p.s. the wipers are off the car as the scuttle panel had gone white from UV damage, so I perminately colour dyed it, so it was matte black again.




 Always clean.

That looks great, just like mine There seems to be a fear by car sales about cleaning cars under the bonnet, Because of electronics being so expencive to replace.I cleaned mine with a cloth and detergent on it,then wiped it off with a clean wet cloth. Bit messy but it did the job.Bits at front of engine compartment were done with a spray on engine cleaner,and washed off with a fine spray water hose. Making sure not to get to much water near bulkhead,as most of the ECU etc are around that area. I say that if these cars are able to drive through two foot of water,the electrics must be well protected itisme

did mine with Snow foam, only on a warm engine though to ensure its got heat around the important bits!

then wash off with fan lance at a distance

gleaming!!!  None currently




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Looks great although I don't have access to that sort of equipment - just Meguiars engine cleaner spray and a Karcher

Took me so long to reply to that I never saw the other posts... thanks for those. Having the engine warm sounds like a good idea

I have made a start with just a cloth but the nooks and crannies are crying out for attention!

I use some Autosmart G101 cleaner or any decent All Purpose Cleaner (search for APC cleaner on EBay) then spray on and use a soft brush to agitate all the grubby areas, power wash lightly off from a distance. Leave engine bay to dry and then spray Aerospace 303 all over the bay including all plastics. Close the bonnet down and go and make a brew and in half an hour come back out and open your bonnet to a gleaming engine bay that will be dry, and plastics will be black again.

It will now be clean enough to eat your dinner off  2003 BMW M5 - 5 Litres of V8 Optimax Slurping Goodness in Carbon Black

2013 SDV6 HSE Black Edition- Orkney Grey with Ebony & Ivory. LR Facelift RAI, Genuine G4 Expedition Rack, 4x Warn SBD-160 Spotlights, Warn 9.5XPS Winch, Mantec Underbody Protection and Sump Guard, Full Easy Lift Suspension Module, LR Light Guards, Light Force HTX230 Hybrid spotlights, 18” Compomotive PD1881 on 265/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2, ARB fridge, TuffTrek awning 😎

[quote]Hi there,

I just gave our sport a big clean up as it was looking seriously tired.

the engine bay was degreased, and cleaned via my dry ice cleaner and then dressed in aerospace 303 protectant.

the insulator was hanging down, so I removed it, machine polished the underneath of the bonnet, steam cleaned the sound insulator on the prochem system and then put all new clips in.

This was the finished article. not bad for a car thats done 88,000 miles.

p.s. the wipers are off the car as the scuttle panel had gone white from UV damage, so I perminately colour dyed it, so it was matte black again.

Hi superclean, where did you get the clips for securing the underbonnet insulator ? 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Do not use high pressure washers near the rear of the battery box as you will have transmission faults for the next 3 weeks. There is a transmission ECU behind the battery that is not real water proof.

Garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Thanks for the warning - think I'll just use one of those pump action garden sprays to be on the safe side - should be enough to rinse the dirt away without risking water going where it shouldn't!

Any tips for cleaning or replacing the insulation guys?

Totally agree with avoiding squirting any water at all behind the battery. Both the transfer box ECU and the engine ECU are located there. Worth taking out the battery and then checking that the inadequate rubber seals are at least all seated correctly as if a typical sloppy technician has been in there before they won't have put everything back together carefully.

Ideally remove the engine undertray and the front grille before you start.

After that use sweet smelling Autoglym engine cleaner or a much less expensive but equally good product that screwfix sell in 5 litre containers as concentrated degreaser (will last you a lifetime).

Scrub the cleaner in with a paintbrush in all the nooks and crannies and then wash off using a normal low pressure garden hose as there's no need for a pressure washer.

Allow to dry off a bit and help things along with some old towels.

Use spray wax polish like the Turtlewax one on the painted surfaces and buff up with some more old towels.

Give the metal unpainted surfaces a good soaking with Aerospace 303 and the plastic surfaces a going over with Autoglym rubber and vinyl cleaner and buff up with more towels.

Try to choose a long sunny day and leave the bonnet open facing the sun to dry everything off nicely and all should be well.

Be warned that your neighbours will of course think you are nuts. Last summer I did all the above on my classic 911 and left it on the driveway with the engine lid open overnight. First thing next morning my kindly neighbour knocked on the door to "check I was OK". They thought I must have had a coronary or something as presumably I would never have deliberately left the car outside all night like that. You have been warned  2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Thanks Paddi - that's a few recommendations for this aerospace stuff, will have to get hold of some

I think my neighbours are used to me spending "too much" time on my car by now... or my "other woman" as my wife likes to call it!

Thanks to this thread I had a tentative go at washing the engine bay today. I had a small amount of general purpose degreaser in the shed so sprayed this around, worked it in with a brush and then jet washed around the engine whilst it was still on, then went for a 15 minute drive afterwards. No problems whatsoever . I noticed afterwards that there are parts that I missed so I'll be buying some more degreaser and then some of that aerospace 303.

One question though, I was trying to remove the soft material from the underside of the bonnet yet couldn't remove the plastic connectors...how do these come out? Thanks Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.