Hi all I left off my v8 today at a reccomended indie. I was floored at the cost where I was planning only a simple service and gear box flush it has escalated really fast. Take a look at this list and let me know your thoughts on what I should get done. The guy seemed really nice and helpful so I dont suspect he is pushing me but its such an exhaustive list Im worried where to start!



Hi Chris

Following our telephone conversation earlier, please find estimated repair prices outlined below:

- Service - £210+vat
- Transmission oil and filter replacement - £320+vat approx..
- Fit front parking sensor - £43 -86+vat approx..
- Washer jet - £22+vat
- Replacement of both front lower wishbones due to excessive bush wear - £482+vat
- Replacement of both rear upper wishbones due to excessive bush wear - £390+vat
- Replacement of both rear lower wishbones due to excessive bush wear - £420+vat
- Replacement of passenger-side rear spindle rod due to joint wear - £44+vat (may not be required)
- Replacement of propshaft due to carrier bearing wear - £325+vat
- Front brake pad and wear sensor replacement - £104+vat
- Rear brake pad and wear sensor replacement - £72+
- Rear tyre slow puncture - £10+vat (work carried out by local tyre depot) – May be best to leave this as rear tyres are worn anyway.
- Rear tyres worn - £N/A – Unfortunately we don’t supply tyres but Magowans Tyres are a few minutes away from us. Prices are available from their website http://www.magowantyres.co.uk/ (You tyre size is Width – 275 / Profile – 40 / Diameter -20 / Speed rating of Y)
- Four-wheel alignment (carried out by local specialist) - £80+vat approx..
- Steering rack replacement - £1050+vat approx… (There is a possibility of steering pump damage as it appears to have been filled with the incorrect oil - £430+vat pump replacement)

Its best to have all the works carried out but as there is a considerable amount required, I could suggest having the repairs carried out in the following order of priority:

1. Service (already complete)
2. Rear brake pad replacement
3. Front brake pad replacement
4. Rectification of steering rack fault
5. Worn tyre replacement
6. Replacement of both front lower suspension arms
7. Replacement of rear upper and lower suspension arms
8. Replacement of passenger-side rear spindle rod if required
9. Replacement of propshaft
10. Replacement of washer jet
11. Replacement of front parking sensor
12. Replacement of transmission oil and filter

· If any of the suspension work is carried out, a four-wheel alignment will be required.

There is always a chance that the vehicle will fail MOT with worn suspension components but the standard to which a vehicle is tested largely depends on the individual examiner.

As a bare minimum I’d recommend having repairs 1-5 carried out (as I’m concerned about the safety implications of a potentially faulty steering rack).

You could then carry out repairs 6-12 over a period of time, depending on the MOT test. 

whern i first read the list i thought the garage where having a laugh!! but when i got to the end of the list it maid more sense.
he atates repairs 1-5 are urgent, fair enough brakes and steering are important. the rest are just worn bushes and to be fair like he says some people are super kean on worn bushes and others are more reasnable. now if you have ever seen the bushes on the rrs they are designed to allow alot of movement, when required. and its easy to get them top move if you want them to hense its easy to say excessive wear. now on a mot it literally has to be f**ked to fail. some movement is acceptable in a bush that is designed to move. so get the more pressing items fixed (if you trust there jugment) then get a second opinion on the other worn components.

also to add i would question why there are parts on the list that also have "may not be required".
the parts listed are either worn or not and its very easy to tell.

Steering rack and prop over priced, labour on bushes over egged if they come out. Some do some don't and bet at least one bolt will snap.
What's wrong with the rack, leaking? Wrong fluid usually blows seals rather than damaging anything component wise. 2x TDV6. SE and HSE. Both returned to sender with issues👀
TDV8 Sport HSE...... Gone. Loved it but it didn't love me!!
Now rolling in MY10 Fullfat TDV8 Vogue. Slammed it to go round corners🙈
Cruising daily #56 mph in a Volvo V8. 😱
Lots of other toys in the cupboard...😜

Thanks guys, I noticed last week the car turning heavy, ran a search on here and it gave some people who added WD40 on the shaft and it fixed, so I asked them today to check it. He told me the fluid was black and they replaced it. But he said that the rack may be damaged. He was not sure if it was or was not to be honest.

So I've a mind to take it back and test if the new fluid helps - but if it stays heavy I guess I'm Fuc£$d. My main plan for now is get the brakes, service and drive her home. Then work out if my warranty will cover the new rack.

If it will I'll get it fixed. If not, I'm not sure.
The rest of the bushes is a bit scary.

The total bill if I add it all up is ~£4200

I got the thing for 18k only 9 months back. Insisted by the dealer it was all LR servicing from the start, so I expected a good example despite the 100k on the clock.


I really really love the sport, but this is making my wife's predictions all come true. I may end up a sad man.  

simple1 wrote:

Steering rack and prop over priced, labour on bushes over egged if they come out. Some do some don't and bet at least one bolt will snap.
What's wrong with the rack, leaking? Wrong fluid usually blows seals rather than damaging anything component wise.

im guessing he is quoting for full arms as the bushes can be a pig.

it is also un fair to to say his prices are over priced as im sure the dealers would have his pants even furthere down.
if his work his top notch and his customer serivce is as good. then its better to pay once for a job done right then pay twice for a job done ...

^^^
the joy of open discussion, can say what you like fair or not. I base my standard on what I can do myself, knowing it's done correctly and what I've paid for parts recently. So perfectly fair to say I think they are over egging labour. It took me half hour to do one side, two the other.
Full of cold and flu so tolerance levels for 's is limited.  2x TDV6. SE and HSE. Both returned to sender with issues👀
TDV8 Sport HSE...... Gone. Loved it but it didn't love me!!
Now rolling in MY10 Fullfat TDV8 Vogue. Slammed it to go round corners🙈
Cruising daily #56 mph in a Volvo V8. 😱
Lots of other toys in the cupboard...😜

Who is your warranty with? If it's with LR then you should be ok - I recently had the steering rack and lower column replaced under LR's extended warranty.

Bushes won't be covered by LR's warranty and, at 100k miles, I doubt other warranties would cover much of the cost even with "wear and tear".

Transmission fluid and filter can be done cheaper than that. Might be worth getting it power flushed by one of the site's sponsors.

If the steering is better with the oil change then I'd go for the service and brakes and take my time on the other stuff. I'd get the tyre repair done straight away - indeed I had one done today as it picked up a nail. £10+vat and back on the road. Got to be worth doing for peace of mind. Changing a wheel on the side of a busy road is not fun.

The rear spindle rod has a history of been changed under warranty but being found to be ok by LR according to info I saw on Disco3. It's a cheap fix though so if it does need doing it's not too bad. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thanks again, I think I've come to the same idea, the money for this atm after Christmas is a bit hard. Worst thing is I bought new 22" rims and was about to pull the trigger on new rubber for them. But I'll roll the 20's now for the next few months till I gather more cash.

Out of interest how is it best to go about claiming on warranty - I dont want to say the wrong thing and shoot myself in the foot!

I value what the guys said, that if they come with good workmanship it is sometimes best to pay a bit more. We dont have much choice here really in N.Ireland for good work.


This is the warranty company, just reading this, I'm not covered for wear and tear ;( It is the gold package the dealer sold me. http://www.autoprotect.co.uk/customer-protect 

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j...S7yvGjdBYg

Source your own parts and find a good mechanic, you can get recon racks for a fraction of the price, as said sort out any safety related issues first

Seems way over priced for the suspension parts

designboy wrote:

This is the warranty company, just reading this, I'm not covered for wear and tear ;( It is the gold package the dealer sold me. http://www.autoprotect.co.uk/customer-protect

Not too sure what an MOT guarantee actually is. It passed it's MOT in England and my dealer imported it to northern Ireland. It has been fully land rover serviced since it was new. I'm going to actually go back to my dealer and flag that there is over 4k worth of work to be done only 9 months in.

Bit much. Especially when he told me he serviced the bushes. I feel so green to what I bought as I understand more now.



I'll look into this today. Wondering how best to ask my warranty people to get the shaft claimed for? What would I say happened to it to get a successful claim? 

simple1 wrote:

^^^
the joy of open discussion, can say what you like fair or not. I base my standard on what I can do myself, knowing it's done correctly and what I've paid for parts recently. So perfectly fair to say I think they are over egging labour. It took me half hour to do one side, two the other.
Full of cold and flu so tolerance levels for 's is limited.

Well I'm at least smart enough to research what I'll need. So ill give that part of it a bash. The owner of the firm called me today and kindly offered me to do part of the work in kind for my design work. So it might be vesable for me to get all the work done. Thanks all for your help and advice. It's really helped me steer my feelings over the thing. 

If you were worried about the steering / suspension / safety you I could put it through an MOT, at the minute they are around £35 close to me but not sure how much they are where you live? At least then you will know how bad the actual arms / suspension bushes / steering is? If indeed there is excessive play it will fail.

Just on that note, my sport just passed MOT but advised on front lower suspension arm bushes have play, despite new arms being fitted around 6 months ago. Eventually I will probably poly bush the arms, I think we just have to accept there may be a small amount of play.

Brake wise, there are guides on the from if you are ok with spanners / DIY?

Good luck with it