Hi everyone,

I have been intended to buy a RRS for a while but still have not made my mind up with with version to get. Originally my budget was quite low and I was only looking at the 2.7 TDV6. However I heard from friends that they are really under-power and a lot of them have mechanic problems.

Therefore I put my budget up and start looking at the 3.6 TDV8. Tried a few and they sounds so much better with the V8. However I don't really like the center console and have been introduced to the later model 3.0 TDV6.

I have test drive a few already and think this one suit me the most. (Again budget higher ) Looked at a few and still think they are too Normal, fancy abit of the kit. ......................HST................seriouly budget can't go any higher this time.

Can anyone suggest me which one I should get.
I will be using it on road only
I travel 5 miles on a daily basis to work. 2/3 is highway.
Don't often drive motorway.
Fuel efficient? if any?
Good Resell value
My budget is appro £30k.

Much appreciated for your help.

Buy the latest model TDV6 / SDV6 you can get. Worry about the "kit" later when you have more budget. Gone - 2008 Stornoway Grey RRS 2.7 TDV6
Gone - 2009 Buckingham Blue RRS 2.7 TDV6
Gone - 2010 Alaska White RRS 5.0 V8 Aspirated
Gone - 2017 Chawton White RRS 5.0 V8 Supercharged
Current - 2010 Java Black RRS 5.0 V8 Aspirated
Current- 2024 RRS P400 SE Dynamic

I don't find my 2.7 TDV6 to be underpowered or and have never had any mechanical problems, maybe there is something wrong with your friends cars? Current: 06 RR Sport HSE TDV6, Bonatti grey, black leather. Defender 90 pick up. Vito 110cdi

Previous: Mercedes CLS, BMW 330cd M sport, Nissan 200sx, Impreza STi, EP3 Civic Type R

Hi & welcome to the forum use the search button on the top banner bar this should throw up some info - with your mileage why not a Supercharged Petrol
Good luck. 16MY Estoril Blue SVR.............
17MY Autobiography Dynamic - Corris Grey - WOW.
14MY Autobiography Dynamic - SDV6 - Fuji White
12MY Autobiography - SDV6 - Santorini Black - Dual View - Rear Entertainment - Sunroof.
12MY Autobiography - SDV6 - Orkney Grey - awesome ;(
2005 Java Black - 4.2 V8 Supercharged First Edition- will never be forgotten ;(

HST kit and new (2010 onwards) shape do not mix

You'd be better looking at an Autobiography kit if I were you. RRS gone
Audi SQ5...Gone Audi Q7 S-Line 240 3.0TDI Gone
Audi A6 Allroad Sport 270 3.0TDI

Are these friends that have never driven or owned a RRS If you are only doing 5 miles a day you really wouldn't notice if it was under powered or not. You could always get it remapped which will bring it a bit nearer the 3.0L tdv6 power plant as i did with my 2.7 tdv6.

Surely if you are only doing 5 miles a day then the engine wont be warm enough giving it enough poke to notice and power/lack of power  Current: 06 RR Sport HSE TDV6, Bonatti grey, black leather. Defender 90 pick up. Vito 110cdi

Previous: Mercedes CLS, BMW 330cd M sport, Nissan 200sx, Impreza STi, EP3 Civic Type R

Hi and welcome!!

I've had all 3 of these cars and I would totally avoid the 2.7 TDV6 as it IS very underpowered (but i guess thats a personal, subjective view). I had a TDV8 for 6 years which was by far the best car that I've ever owned. The V8 does seem to be prone to a few problems though (mine wasnt tho!) and I've just changed to a new SDV6 which has an amazing interior and is barely any slower than my V8 although slightly lacking in the exhaust rumble department!

I would go for 2010+ 3.0 TDV6. Its not quite the engine thats in mine but 245bhp v 255bhp and you could get it remapped.

Hope that helps.

Cheers 2013 RRS SDV6 Autobiography Fuji White
2007 RRS TDV8 HSE - gone -
2005 RRS TDV6 HSE - gone -

Last edited by paulL on Thu Oct 10 2013 12:41pm. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks guys.

What do I have to look out for if I am buying a 09/10 RRS 3.0 TDV6?

Is there anything I should know before going to view the car?

Many thanks

From another similar thread.....with credit to RRSTDV8

RRSTDV8 wrote:

The basics are:
Buy the best one you can afford. Full service history is a must but could include work from a decent independent LR specialist. The TDV6 requires the belts to be changed at 105k / 7 years. Note that all services are time or distance so the vehicle should have a service entry every 12 months as a minimum. Any missing services, walk away - there are plenty of RRS out there.

A warranty really is essential.

The TDV6/TDV8 question is unanswerable I'm afraid. Some prefer one to the other and you need to drive both and consider the fuel usage of both. The 3.0TDV6 is a lot better than the older 2.7 (and probably on a par with the TDV8) if your budget stretches to it.

If you want a modded one, be very careful - better to buy a standard one and mod it yourself. Then you know what has been done and what parts were used. Good modded RRS come up occasionally in the For Sale section of this site so might be worth a look there if that is your thing. At least that way you can see what has been done because they will probably have a thread somewhere about the work they've done.

Watch out for vehicles fitted with 22inch wheels. There are a number of cheap copies of well known wheels out there. Check the load rating of the wheel and whether it is genuine e.g. Overfinch. Be aware that the RRS was never designed to run 22inch wheels and fitting them may lead to earlier replacement of suspension bushes. Try one with 19in, 20in and 22in wheels if you can and see how the ride is affected and whether that is an issue for you.

All RRS need bushes doing at some point. The anti roll bar bushes seem to be considered consumable items by LR. Wishbone bushes wear too. A knock through the suspension when dropping a wheel in to a pothole probably indicates ARB bushes needs to be replaced. Not expensive and has been done DIY by some hereabouts. Wishbone bushes are less commonly required but cost more as the old ones need to be gas torched off the vehicle. New wishbones are then fitted. A bit more expensive than ARB bushes.

Other than that, the usual rules apply - make sure everything works. The RRS's electrical system is a bit of a diva and likes to throw the toys out when seemingly little things go wrong. A blown brake light bulb can cover the dashboard in error messages. Yes, really. Also check the air suspension. It should raise quite quickly. The rear goes up slightly before the front. If it's very slow to raise that would suggest a weak compressor that might need replacing.

 ON THE WAY: BMW F21 M140i
MERCEDES GL350 - Metallic Navy Blue w/Grey interior

GOING: BMW F31 335D MSport+ xDrive Touring
GONE: Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE - Stornaway Grey w/Black Interior (wish we'd kept it )
GONE: BMW F10 520D MSport - Carbon Black
GONE:MY12 RRS SDV6 HSE Sumatra/Ivory/Grand Black Privacy glass

Beancounter has covered most of the bases.

Go through everything electrical! Check all the seat motors, AirCon, heater, including the buttons that direct airflow through the different vents. Parking sensors are a mare! Mine gave up on the first day and have not worked since!

Put it in to reverse and if you get a 3 second high pitch tone and a flashing light on one of the buttons beneath the sat-nav screen, there is a park sensor problem. Get this fixed by the seller! Some vehicles have front sensors too - put it in drive and see if you get the tone & flashing.

Check the heated screen. Often some of the elements fail, so you get patches which don't de-mist properly. Electric mirror motors can get sticky too.

With the vehicle moving, move the gear lever to the left to put it in to 'Sport' mode, then use forward & backward to test each of the gears. The Dash will tell you which gear is selected.

Try each of the suspension heights as well as driving in low & high range. It's also worth trying each of the terrain response settings just to make sure they do something sensible.

Clonks from the front end are almost inevitable. They sound much worse than they are and provide good leverage for haggling on price! Mostly it's just anti roll bar bushes, but even if it's wishbone bushes, they will not break the bank.

Shock absorbers are another one, See how quickly it settles if you push one corner down. It should not cycle more than once. These are more expensive to fix than most cars because they are built in to the air springs and both need to be replaced as one.

When you are test driving it, find a road with speed bumps or pot-holes - these will show up most suspension issues.

Unless you're planning on racing - the 2.7 has plenty of go about it. It's also a bit more economical. I've not found it under-powered in any sense. Maybe if your other car is a Ferrari, you might find it lacking, but my other car is a Defender - and compared to that, it's blistering!

Si

thanks Simon R and Beancounter. Lots of useful information.

With the budget £30k you should be able to pick up a clean example 3.0 tdv6
and maybe afterwards start with the AB kit, HST kits are pre 2010 models.

Goodluck either way.

He gave 23k to someone in cash and bought a stolen cloned motor. Looks to me like they then stole it back posing as cops. His story is fishy........  Gone - 2008 Stornoway Grey RRS 2.7 TDV6
Gone - 2009 Buckingham Blue RRS 2.7 TDV6
Gone - 2010 Alaska White RRS 5.0 V8 Aspirated
Gone - 2017 Chawton White RRS 5.0 V8 Supercharged
Current - 2010 Java Black RRS 5.0 V8 Aspirated
Current- 2024 RRS P400 SE Dynamic

Last edited by BKHK on Tue Sep 30 2014 12:24pm. Edited 1 time in total