I'm with schmoo on this...I've already got the coded side vents and received the Java/Zambesi grill two weeks ago (I've told my wife the new car is being delivered in parts for self assembly...cheaper that way...she started to wonder when the 19" wheels (for winter) came in by courrier). The car will be fitted with OE Stormers by the dealer on delivery.

I think the Supercharged looks terrific and if it were not that my overwhelming sense of responsibility blocks me from buying something that would depreciate so outrageously, I would have one - my TDV6 will not have S/C vents or grille, will have that lovely JE exhaust, and black badges (they c-coded grille came with a black badge...have to to the back now). It will however remain badged HSE...that's what it is.

Anyway, the green badge is for LR's agricultural "range" isn't it?

I just wonder how the girls at the office are going to stuff that exhaust in my pigeon hole... 2006 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE, Java/Ebony/Cherry, Privacy, Sunroof, PTI, Premium Sound, SatNav, Cold Climate, Tow kit, CarStyle coded grill and vents, Tasmods, Stormers, JE Exhaust, Autobiography badge

I'm sure the brummies are not as fussy or as careful as that when they're hammering the cars together in Coventry!!!?

Brian Mason wrote:

I'm sure the brummies are not as fussy or as careful as that when they're hammering the cars together in Coventry!!!?

My method may seem a little OTT, but worked for me:

I used Triangulation and simply plotted the position in relation to points on the surrounding landscape from two separate standpoints.

Sound tricky? Well I used a regular surveyors Theodolite which I hired from Handy Hire in Long Eaton. My missus held a levels rod on our top field and between us we plotted the whole back end (just jotting down the dimensions as we went).

When I finally applied the badge, I am almost certain that it is in the same position as before - I would swear on it.

The whole job took 2 hours - tops - and I reckon my badges must be the best applied on this forum.

Next week we are planning to fit stormer alloys using a plumb and bob set.

Glad u liked that!

On a serious note - just done job in my lunch break. Took about 15mins.

Rear badge - Easy - Marked horizontal line with masking tape under bottom edge, and one strip for left edge. Used dental floss behind one corner, and 'sawed' off badge. Then picked off glue residue with thumb nail, before using a T cut type fluid (was actually that fancy Maguires paint prep stuff), just to clean the surface off. Then stuck new badge on (carefully!) before removing tape.

Front - I got a hairdryer and heated up the badge for a couple mins. Then I got a drill (bear with me), with a tiny bit and drilled the old badge about 10mm from the corner, making a tiny hole which didnt go into grille (actually just touched it but so what the badge hides!). THEN I put in a small sharp self tapper screw and screwed it in again guestimating the thickness of the badge (ie not into grille). I then went back to hairdryer, and heated the screw area of the badge. NEXT, pair of pliers on the screw, and pulled whilst continued to heat. Started to come away EASY. And once a corner was lifted just pulled with fingers whilst carrying on heating. Picked glue residue off as back, and DONE! Hope this helps. Sorry about gag couldnt help it! Made Aljo laugh anyway!

EX-X5! wrote:

Sorry about gag couldnt help it! Made Aljo laugh anyway!

you mean its not true? ive just ordered my engineer and chain lad to set up datum levels and tangents all over this site cos the letter "R" is slightly skew -wiff on the bonnet of the car

means i have to off hire the gps satalite tracking theodolite too



 

he he he!

Wow, I never thought I’d be re-visiting this old thread

What I did in the end was a variation of MDP’s method on page one.

I got a piece of light cardboard, traced out the shape of the badge, using the new & as yet unapplied black badge, onto the cardboard.

Then with a very sharp scalpel cut out the shape, leaving the “Oval Hole” creating a template.

Then placed the template over the original green badge, fixed the card to the boot with some masking tape & removed the green badge. Which left me with an exact reference for the new badge.

After a trial run, I then stuck the black badge onto the boot, removed the card template & Hey Presto, new badge in exactly the same place as the original green one.

Just done this tonight on front and back.

Front I made a small hole in the badge, heated, lifted with a bradawl through the drill hole and and then pulled with a pair of long nose pliars - a doddle (make sure you keep the heat on though as it looks like it could crack the grill if not and the adhesive really has grabbed). Clening the foam adhesive pad left behind caused many blistered fingers

Rear I made a card template cutting out a hole using the new badge to draw on thin card. Placed over old badge and stuck to car with masking. Folded down so that I could work on removing the old badge with more room. Tried dental floss but kept snapping and cutting into fingers through gloves. Ended up using the flat plastic banding used on pallets and large parcels. Used it gently with a sawing action and it went through in seconds. Make sure that you loop behind the badge and pull slightly away from the paint, just in case you get some minor abrasions. It didn't mark my paint at ALL, even under super lighting.

Cleaned area, heated panel to ensure 100% dry and then flipped card up into place and taped the top securely to the body. Simply placed new badge in template hole. ##TIP## When you have cut the hole in the template for the badge, line the hole in the card with small 1" strips of masking tape all the way around. This will make sure that when you apply the new badge none of the cardboard fibres from the edge of the hole stick to the adhesive pad and cause problems later with water ingress.

Jobs a good one

My god, aren't we sad - just stick it on, or leave it alone

Tornado, mate you must be reading through lots and lots of old posts!!! Hope your RRS is looking good!

Tornado, mate you must be reading through lots and lots of old posts!!! Hope your RRS is looking good!

Looking at vintage posts I'd say!

Always try to find answers from earlier posts before asking again.

RRS is looking well sorted now, just need the spring to come so I can get out my new MY2010 20" alloys - soooo cool. (on winter tyres and rims right now - law here).