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kav1187

Member Since: 04 Apr 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 307

2006 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Bonatti Grey

Post has been added to definitive 'how to' thread.

Great work mate. I imagine it's the same with any turbo, but when i swapped my one on the vw golf, I had to inject oil into the oil feed pipe with a syringe. It came with the turbo but if yours doesn't then might be worth double checking. Haven't got my haynes manual handy to check for ya

Keep up the good work!

Thu Dec 06 2012 12:35am

Boost

Member Since: 18 Aug 2011
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 60

2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 SE Zermatt Silver

I lied about the price..........£844.80 - got charged vat on the carriage I hate them at 11 Downing Street!

But on the other hand I got one of these today

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Opened it and found this inside - just what I need

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First thing the LR bulleten says is to drill the turbo so Nuts & bolts can be fitted instead of the original studs

I can see why, if the studs were fitted it would be impossible to tighten the nuts.

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Then to put the new studs in, 3 x M10 in the exhaust outlet & 1 x M8 in the inlet (lower) thought I'd add some thread lock too for good measure

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Found some M8 x 40 Stainless Steel bolts to use in the top mounting holes (I aquired when I worked for a food manufacturing company

)

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Copper greased them up and slid them into the top holes

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The view from underneath

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I run one of the new M8 lockunts supplied with turbo onto the lower stud then lifted it into somewhere near, I kept the plastic caps on so no crap fell into the 'air' side vanes.

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Removed the plastic caps and smeared the smallest amount of grease over the 'lips'of the castings so the hoses would slide on - seemed to work well, a little jiggling, the hoses were on, the turbo lined up and bolts slid in.

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Then came the first problem, I put the remaining 2 locknuts on but is no room to get a socket on to tighten them up

I'll pop to bolt suppliers tomorrow to try and buy some reduced sized nuts, same thread size but will accept a M10 or M11 socket size. I wonder if that is what comes with the landrover ones?

Anyway I left the turbo loose and carried on with the oil return pipe. I was not looking forward to this as it was fiddly to remove.

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But without the mounting bracket in the way it was dead easy, I stuck the new gasket to the face of the oil return pipe flange with a dap of grease

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That's as far as I got tonight..........

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Thu Dec 06 2012 9:04pm

Disco_Mikey

Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4395

2010 Range Rover Sport Supercharged HSE Santorini Black

When re-fitting the turbo, I use an M8x40 bolt, with a flanged head (10mm, from the front cambelt cover of a 300TDi ) going the opposite way you have yours fitted, and a pair of flange nuts on the inside.

Whatever works for you though

Thu Dec 06 2012 9:22pm

Boost

Member Since: 18 Aug 2011
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 60

The only M8 flange nuts they had were still 13mm socket size, so decided to use M8 x 40mm St/St Cap heads. Put these in with M8 flange nuts on the back and nipped the turbo onto the manifold.

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Next while I could still get to it was the electrical connector for the actuator

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Then the small air intake hose was put back on and clip fastened - this proved to be tricky to clip together!

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Next was the lower bracket, this has 5 bolts in it, 2 into the engine/gearbox and 3 into the turbo, you can only see 1 here, the inner one was very awkward to get in with my sausage fingers! I had to send the eldest son in to get it in!

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Next the bung was removed from the oil supply pipe fitting and 5ml of oil (supplied with the turbo) was injected into the open fitting.

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Supplied syringe

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Then the oil supply Banjo bolt was fitted

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That was end of the day so I dropped the oil, to let it drain overnight. I think most of it was out by the morning

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Next the height sensor was refitted

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Then the top wishbone followed by heat shield that covers the front wishbone bolt

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The top ball joint was reconnected to the front upright

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And the Antiroll bar reconnected

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Rest of the turbo heat shields fitted

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Then onto the exhaust, I cleaned up the exhaust flange

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And fitted the supplied gasket to the turbo

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Fitted the exhaust, then came along a problem - the new studs in the turbo were too long, when I tightened the top one the nut wound itself out the socket before it was tight, couldn't get the socket on any more due to the stud. So had to remove the exhaust, studs and cut them down.

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Now I could get the socket on to nip them all up

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Now with it all fitted I wanted to make sure there were no leaks, but before I could start it I finished off the oil change

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Started it and the instructions said I had to leave it running for 30s with no load. No leaks either

So on with refitting the rest of it, front prop shaft first

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The transmission front cross member followed by the transmission cross member and then the engine & transmission guards.

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Then out for a test

Let it warm up for the first 3/4 miles, then steadily up to 70, no effort needed!!!

Then decided to bury the right foot into the floor

for the next few minutes, off it went with no faults

none on acceleration or overrun

Completed the rest of the journey all clear....

I think that has fixed it

And I think I've saved myself a few quid too........

I'll give it a clean tomorrow if the weather is OK

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Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Sat Dec 08 2012 8:13pm

Ady 555
Site Moderator

Member Since: 12 Dec 2010
Location: Good old yorkshire
Posts: 8738

2012 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Santorini Black

Congratulations Boost a well executed project and a great step by step guide for those brave enough to take it on, well done.

Sat Dec 08 2012 11:00pm

Disco_Mikey

Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4395

Good effort, and excellent write up

Sun Dec 09 2012 8:19am

gruodiz

Member Since: 27 Nov 2011
Location: Klaipeda
Posts: 63

Excellent writteup and full of detailed photos

Btw did you know that when the height sensor is reatached it requeres height recalibration. Sensor bolt holes has some free play and 1mm there might become 5mm at sensor legs end. Just in case ... you can always remeassure each corner when car is on level.

Wed Apr 17 2013 8:29pm

GREENI

Member Since: 21 Aug 2012
Location: Staffs
Posts: 9

Great write up... Needs to be made a 'sticky'. Cough MARTIN cough Multi thousand poster on Defender2.net

Wed Apr 17 2013 9:28pm

gazzc

Member Since: 07 Jan 2010
Location: cheshire
Posts: 494

2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Siberian Silver

great write up im halfway through doing mine now so will be handy to have this to check im doing it right silverRRS 2.7 TDV6 22"WHEELS FULL COLOUR CODE,STEPS,REMAP..gone
Rimini red rrs 2.7 tdv6 steps. Full c code. Recon engine!!loved but!gone ,thank god !!
Gone rr sport supercharged. Loved but 11mpg !!!
current,triumph stag mk2...current bmw 325 sport convertible

Sat May 10 2014 5:30pm

ravingmad

Member Since: 23 May 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 331

2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography Santorini Black

Superb write up with photos.
My hat comes off to you. MY13.5 Autobiography, Santorini Black, Privacy Glass. Gone
Driving a milk float for now.

Sat May 10 2014 9:28pm

designboy

Member Since: 03 Feb 2014
Location: whitehead co antrim
Posts: 338

2007 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Lux Stornoway Grey

Blown away with the work involved, I'd be happy paying for it now that I see the graft in it!
Well done man.

Mon May 12 2014 8:07pm

Pxcars

Member Since: 17 Dec 2016
Location: Trefeglwys
Posts: 13

2006 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Santorini Black

Thought I was I right smart arse I managed to undo top turbo bolts only.to find out it will not come off with studs in place!!!!!

Sat Feb 04 2017 6:40pm

DerrekL

Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: West Lothian
Posts: 240

2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

Re: Pictures of the turbo removal

Boost wrote:
Pictures of the turbo removal, this is the first time I've done this so did it at my pace and maybe took more off than I need to.........

First the car was put in the garage

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Then the LHS front wheel removed and front end put on axle stands. First thing to remove is the transmission cross menber

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This has a little pump/filter bolted to it so that was removed after the heat shield

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Then the front transmission cross member

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Next thing to remove was the front propshaft, looks like the front UJ is leaking!

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Now we can see where the exhaust bolts to the turbo

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Then I removed the first heat shied hiding the turbo in the inner wing area

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Next was to undo the exhaust from the turbo, these were FT! one nut came off and on the other two the studs came out!

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Next were some more heat shields

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Then one of the support brackets

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Then the lower turbo mounting nut was loosened, I could not shift this to start with and thought I was going to round it off so it was heated with a blowlamp them it came off!

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Next thing to come off was the front suspension upper arm, this required a few more heat shields to be removed aswell, now I could see the turbo!!!

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Next thing to be loosened was the oil feed pipe, I left this on until last thing to stop any getting in

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Then the oil return pipe

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Next the other mounting bracket was supposed to be removed but be forked if I could shift them bolts, thought I save them til later and it was loose (hopefully). That is as far as I got yesterday. I was wondering if the exhaust system needed fully removing so I asked, Disco_Mikey confirmed this - Thanks

So first job today was exhaust removal

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Next was to unplug the unit, I could not get my delicate hands into reach so removed the small air pipe to gain access

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Then came the bit I was not lookin forward too - Drilling the upper turbo mounting studs out. I decided to start with a 6mm drill, I remembered I had extended a holesaw a while back for a job and the pilot bit in them was 6mm - borrowed!

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The bit needed sharpening several times during this

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I decided to make another to hold the 8mm bit required, I drilled the centre out to 8mm on the lathe (dead handy bit of kit) then welded a bit of 8mm round bar to it

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The studs were drilled to about 15mm, then I used a punch to pop the first stud out through the exhaust manifolds, you can see the top left stud popped out here

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I tried to pop the top left one out but the turbo then fell off!!

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So I removed the air pipes and tried to wiggle it out

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But it would not come out due the the bracket I failed to removed earlier, but now I can get to the bollts

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One turbo out!

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A couple of pics showing the actuator on the bench

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Just need to buy a new one and fit it!!!

what is it with the photobucket account required to view your pictures on this post. I have created an account on this site and a photobucket account but still cannot view them? :shock:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Wed Aug 16 2017 12:11pm

Bill Portland

Member Since: 01 Feb 2017
Location: Dorsetshire
Posts: 387

2012 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography Orkney Grey

photobucket have changed their Ts & Cs so that, if you want to post your pics on 3rd party sites, you have to subscribe and I understand it's a lot of money (US$399). Hence a lot of people are leaving Photobucket, and a lot of old posts have lost their pics. Merc C220 estate Sport AMG
Merc C220 estate Sport AMG 125 year edition
Alfa GT
Rover 76 V6

Wed Aug 16 2017 12:17pm

DerrekL

Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: West Lothian
Posts: 240

Thanks for the update Bill. That would explain why I can view some of the posts pictures and other posts are not visible. This would mean originators of posts (without pics) would have to upload again onto this site. What a rigmarole RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Wed Aug 16 2017 12:48pm

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