No you don't have to do that gentle warm up with the supercharger. the supercharger has it's own oil reservoir and there is really nothing special to its mechanical parts. the supercharger is making some 12.000 rpm max with decent size ball bearings whilst the Turbos in the diesel are doing 150.000 rpm with very tiny oil film bearings.

I've got a Jaguar XKR and I start to hammer it within a 2 minutes after I started the car.
but I must say, I leave it idling for some 30 seconds before I switch it off but that is only after a full throttle 6 mile drive up the hills.

^^^^ I must think on never to buy a motor off you. During warm up of an engine is the most likely time you are going to damage it, thrashing it from cold

^^^^ I'm with you Ady - a car to avoid.

Apart from anything else high revs from cold is an ideal way to snap a top ring and high load at low revs will kill the main-bearings. That's not considering gearbox and diff.

My previous post was about how i look after my own car but i have a works car too.

That never gets warmed up, hits near red line before temps even got moving, nevers gets cooled down and in over ten years of this ive never had any failure, that said they only do about 30k in three years then i get a new one.

I dont think this is big or cleaver which is why i didnt post it earlier but though its now relevant when post are saying it will cause damage, now im not saying it doesnt (only true way would be to pull an engine apart to check it) just stating facts that ive had.

I have loads of motorbikes too and i got told when running an engine in after its been rebuilt you have two options, ride it hard from the start and it will produce more power but wear out quicker or run it in slowly for less power but longer life. I thought this was . We rebuild the engines every 100 hours of use.

with brand new engines, it is best to go Wide open throttle for the first miles. Not necessarily high revving but WOT as much as possible in order to bed in the piston rings better.

this only works for brand new engines as the cilinderwalls are still a bit rough. once they are smooth, the piston rings will never bed in properly anymore.

So how does that work for cars, well you just have to be lucky that the guy at the factory driving your car pushed it well enough.
That's also a reason why one car can be faster than the other.

Arn't new engines already run in to some degree before we get them in our motors

yes, but that's why I wrote that hopefully the guy at the factory wasn't gently with your engine.
this bedding in of the piston rings under full load only works for the first 10 miles as the cilinder wall get too smooth after that.

I can't imagine them employing Joe Bloggs to run every engine in I'd have thought that its all done via a computer to control the revs, not Mr Bloggs sat in a mock up car revving its nuts off.

It is the guys driving the car out of the factory towards the parking lot where the cars are waiting for further shipment. that is a 1 to 2 mile drive.

after engine assembly, only a rotation test is done, it is only at the end of the assembly line where the engines are fired up for the first time. it is at this stage where the crucial wearing in/bedding in stage begins.

^^^^ I'm wondering if you've actually have experience of automotive design/engineering or worked in the industry as much of what you've written above is, in my experience, little more than anecdote and myth.

Cars will be 'tested' before leaving the line and the nature of the CCTV monitored compound usually means there's is little opportunity to 'play' and thrash the vehicles. I'm not saying they aren't driven quickly but the guys who do it every day soon settle down and aren't teenagers.

Its true that modern engines have a rough finish to the cylinder bores to aid oil retention in the earlier miles. However there is a risk that because of the tighter tolerances it can be easy to cause piston rings to 'pickup' and snap. In any case and engine contains a few more components that are in contact than just pistons.

But, importantly, a new car is not just about the engine: within the power-train and ancillaries, infact all the bearing surfaces will need a few hundred miles to 'work harden' their matching surfaces. Even new tyres requires about 200 miles before the moulding release agent wears off and the full grip performance is available - this goes for brake pads and discs.

The best and most mechanically sympathetic way to treat your new car is, once normal temperature's reached, to drive it without using full power or rev it above half maximum for about 500-700 miles after that the power demanded and the engine revs can be gradually increased until 1,500 or 2,000 miles. i.e. treat everything moderately carefully but there's no need to baby it.

After a few thousand miles the full performance of the powertrain, brakes and tyres can be used. Common sense says that it is prudent to allow the engine, gearbox etc. to reach normal operating temperatures before using the car's full capability.

The same 'common sense' suggests it is also wise to allow a few moments gentle treatment (or tickover) after a high speed run for the higher than normal cylinder/piston temperatures to dissipate because the residual energy will turn to heat and this can cause local hotspots this can also happen within the turbos.

^^^ +1