Hi All

After a fairly challenging few months trying to keep my RRS (MY2007 - EU4) on the road in western Africa I am finally back in the UK and able to start getting together the bits and pieces needed to try to Africanise the beast. Essentially, the terrible fuel quality out there, oppressive heat and awful roads (not to mention the complete lack of reliable quality mechanical support, counterfeit parts and sky-high costs) all mean that some preventive modifications need to be made at the very least.

Would love to hear other users thoughts, tips and tricks on this. As I go through my experience I am going to try to catalogue what is done / what needs to be done and hope that this will assist other drivers.

I've already replaced the EGR valves following Disco_Mikey's excellent instructions on the disco3.co.uk forum, as well as cleaned the really filthy MAP and MAF sensors. However coming up over the next couple of weeks I will be trying:

Installing Decat Pipe - from the disco3 group buy from Allisport
Replacing intercooler pipes (with new silicone ones)
Cleaning intercooler
Blanking EGR valves
Remapping ECU to prevent MIL from blanked EGRs

is it the sort of area that would require armour plating and reinforced windows ? Lol

or elephant bars on the front ?  RR Sport Supercharged Vesuvius Orange 4.2 V8 First edition

Prefer RR Vouge S/C but they don't do Orange !

Do you have the raised air intake fitted? This takes air from a less dusty part of the airflow around the vehicle. Should help keep the filter and MAF cleaner for longer.

Also, do you have any underbody protection fitted? If the roads are really bad then this might prevent damage to expensive bits underneath.

It would also be worth replacing the front diff vent valve. A few quid to do. Indeed, it might be worth changing the diff oil (front and rear) and check the condition. Checking the seals would be worthwhile too. Trying to source one in Africa could be tricky. Also, the suspenion compressor filter and dryer might be a good thing to change. Again, no doubt difficult to source in Africa.

Did you run the suspension at standard height on the "roads"? It might be worth using an EAS Tool to run standard height at a higher than normal height. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

You may well ask! This part of the world turns from 'model of democracy' to coup d'Etat in a matter of minutes - as we found out last March.

Interesting question though... if you are really interested?! One of the most important elephant migrations in Africa takes place through this area every year (http://www.wild.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Map-of-Migration-Route_eng.jpg) and this is the exact same area that was overrun by Al-Queda affiliated rebels last year. So both bullbars and armour protection could be a very good idea.

I personally just aim to be able to drive faster than a Landcruiser pickup and make sure that I don't end up sitting by the side of the 'road' with the RR in limp mode!

Air intake 'snorkel' a very good idea. I hadn't actually realised that the side vent really was where the air was drawn from and felt lucky when I did that I had not tried to ford any rivers.

I'll price up some underbody protection (not the blast protection B3EEE talked about) and post what I find as options...

I'm going to add diff oil and seals and air suspension filter and drier to the list.

Ride height is definitely worth adjusting. I am going to adjust this when I get back using the Gap IID tool as I have Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's fitted and slightly higher will definitely suit that tire better.

Any thoughts on wheel spacers? I see that Terrafirma do 30mm spacers. I don't want to look like a prat but the what effect does the slightly wider stance have for off road?

Note that the raised intake isn't a snorkel although it can be made water proof I believe if you make the effort.

As well as the diff oil, it would be worth doing the transfer box and transmission fluids. Also, be worth looking at getting the metal filter base for the transmission. The standard one is plastic and incorporates the filter. It requires the transmission to be lifted to replace it. The metal one has a separate filter which can be changed without lifting the transmission. I would guess the metal base will be stronger than the plastic version. Bear in mind that the mechatronic control block is in the base of the transmission and the base plate is the only thing protecting it.

As for underbody protection, good luck. Other than LR's sump protection plate as seen on the G4, there isn't much around in the UK that I can find. Lots for the D3/D4 but I'm not sure if any will fit the RRS as the dimensions are slightly different. Presumably you could get some plates made by a local metal workshop. If you do find stuff, please let us know - I'd be interested in some underbody protection. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Great thread! The most interesting yet. Don't forget to strip and clean the parking brake. If I was trying to outrun a Toyota Gunship I'd not want the EPB to jam itself on.

Look forward to hearing how it goes.  2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

It might be worth putting together a box of parts that might be expected to be needed. Servicing bits like brake parts (some dust is like grinding paste and can wear out brakes very quickly), various clips and fasteners, full set of replacement bulbs, oil, filters etc.

Also, if you're having diff seals done, get all of the CV boots done too. A worn one letting in dirt in Africa could lead to a failed CV joint and stranding. Be worth adding a couple to your spares box too perhaps. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

DK3000AR wrote:

Any thoughts on wheel spacers? I see that Terrafirma do 30mm spacers. I don't want to look like a prat but the what effect does the slightly wider stance have for off road?

You might want to consider fitting the driving spots too. They sit where the front fog lights sit on the front bumper (and incorporate spots and fogs). Might be useful on unlit roads with big beasties about!  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Brilliant advice so far, thank you guys. I've been back 5 days which have now been almost entirely devoted to the RRS. So far, it is clear that a good stock of o-rings, clic-clips (and their pliers) and the usual good quality tools are an absolute must before attempting any of these things 'on the ground' out here. You'd be amazed how difficult it is to source simple items or tools (sockets etc) that are not made out of gold (I assume they are made out of gold as they are SO expensive and made of the softest metal I've ever encountered).

I've never heard this happen to anyone else but, as I mentioned in another post, I actually had the water outlet connection fail just before going back to the UK. I assume that it was the extreme heat that caused a weakness but the entire thing split in two. For that reason I had to remove the throttle body and the following pictures reveal just how hectic poor fuel + EGR valves + (I suspect) positive crankcase ventilation can be for the air intake manifold.



So, my first bit of advice for ANYONE attempting to run a Rangey where fuel quality is an issue would be to remove ALL of the 'emission control' nonsense from their vehicles. If you look at what each one does it would seem that it simply aims to dilute the inevitable emissions from a vehicle and put it back through your engine in order to give a lower reading at any given moment on a testing station... The results can be catastrophic. At least my vehicle can now breathe without inhaling exhaust.

Next - I have had the fuel tank off. Having had a number of all-systems errors (Transmission, HDC, Park BRake, low ride, + F - while trying to overtake) and IID giving low fuel rail pressure fault code I gave the in-tank fuel filter a thoroughly good clean and discovered while I was at it that the low pressure fuel pump was getting jammed. Whilst I have ordered a new one, simply cleaning for a few hours in petrol seems to have done the trick.

Filter before:



Filter after:



And metal in the fuel swirl pot (probably from dodgy fuel storage):



There's been plenty of chat on this forum about the low pressure fuel pump being the same as a Peugeot 607 and Citroen Xsara and therefore a cheaper alternative to the £700 from a UK LR dealer... and I thought that being in a former-French colony I'd get one of these fairly easily... Oh no... Best price quoted for a new pump: £250 and for a fuel filter: £200... needless to say I have a colleague bringing me both on Thursday from UK (filter £28 and pump from Europarts £29!!.

Will update when I've tackled the rest of the items mentioned above... but so far I seem to have eliminated my ability to re-create the all-systems error and can say definitively that attention to the fuel tank pump and filter are a definite regular thing. I am going to also consider how the low pressure fuel delivery system could be modified to cope with the challenges of Africa (or anyone else with similar problems).

Keep the advice coming as I am thoroughly enjoying the challenge of Africanising the RRS!

Cheers