Hi All,

Pretty sure everyone will say this is the normal characteristics of the car...

But pretty disappointed with what I'll term as 'grabby gears'. By this I mean that gear changes are pretty agricultural and rough. In slow moving traffic gear changes can be pretty jerky and very noticeable.

I did ask for it to be looked at by my dealer and they replaced the air filter and said this may have improved the smoothness of gear changes. I don't think so!

Is there any specific software update to reference if I contact the dealer again?

It's one of those things I didn't expect on such an expensive motor and is taking some of the pleasure away from driving it.

Remap isn't an option as I just bought a 2 year extended warranty!

BTW MY10 TDV6 29k

Cheers MY15.5 Fuji White, SDV8 HSE Dyn Stealth Pack
Gone: MY14 Fuji White, 3.0 TDV6 SE
Gone: MY10 Stornoway Grey, 3.0 TDV6

I would ask them to change the oil and filter for the Gearbox and see if that helps as it should be a fairly smooth change. Dave.
MY12, SDV6, HSE Orkney Grey, Cream leather with contrast stitching, Side steps, Tow bar and electrics, privacy glass.

I find the gears on the new model wanting in comparison to my my06 oil burner. Low revs it hunts for ages to find the right gear, changes are not as smooth Another Pommie Bar Steward down under

MY20 Defender 110 SE P400 Eiger/Ebony
MY10 3.0 RRS TDv6 Fuji/Ebony/Anigre

Best way to check an auto-box change is by a 'coast down' test. Also a good test if you're thinking of buying a car.

Get up to about 45/50 mph so its in top gear then release the throttle and aloow the car to slow down under its own momentum.

The gearbox should change down smoothly as the speed drops to a crawl - if it snatches or hangs or finds a false neutral it can be dirt in the fluid or valve block.


Or - and not for the faint hearted - be careful...
You can also check the torque convertor 'stall' speed. Engine running, select Drive and press left foot on the brake really hard i.e. with all the force you can. Slowly increase the engine revs until they stop rising. If the revs rise or there are weird noises then either the torque convertor or brake bands are shot.

A correctly working autobox should 'stall' the engine and hold all the power of the without any noises of shudders

Make sure there is nothing and nobody in front of the car while you do this test and do not hold the engine in stall for long (10 - 15 seconds).

You can do a similar test on the road by using full throttle acceleration and observe that the engine revs are held as the 'box changes gear; theer should be no false neutrals, slippages, snatches or noises- however be very, very careful and find an empty road!!!

drdelrrs wrote:

You can also check the torque convertor 'stall' speed. Engine running, select Drive and press left foot on the brake really hard i.e. with all the force you can. Slowly increase the engine revs until they stop rising.

Yep, wood or a pair of tyres- that was the advice but all it generally did was allow the wheels to spin.