I have the check engine light on and my scangauge is showing P0490 the general EGR fault code but I need to put it on a proper computer to find out which EGR is playing up. The car is running fine so I assume the EGRs are in the closed position and acting like EGR blanking plates. The car has only covered 57,000km (35,000miles).

Here in Aus EGR valves are about £260 but my searches of UK sites show a cheapest of £120 to about £160. Can anyone suggest the best place to buy new valves?

I have a 07My TDV6 so blanking plates are not an option.

Thanks

Garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Why not try site sponsor Yeovil Landrover over on the D3 site

You can check which egr valve is faulty by lifting your bonnet, then get someone to switch on your ignition on to position 2 whilst you listen for two clicks in the engine compartment, there should be one click either side of the engine left and right hand side, if both egr's are working, if only one clicks, then the opposite one is faulty

had same trouble on mine..! how the aa guy worked it out was to take the black plastic cover off on top off engine and there is 2,one each side pipes with like a mesh on them.He felt them and got me to as well and one was warm and one cold.! im sure he said the one that was cold was the side thats not working..!!!! had it done at landrover last week£400 but still got same problem.!! looks like the other side going in to be done this week.! but reading post on hear say that once one goes the other normally goes pretty quick which i will have to agree.!!

Thanks for all those great replies - I knew there was somewhere down Exeter way that I should be talking too - id Nick the contact?

I will get listening for the clicks and touching up the valves for hot and cold - I agree I should do both but would prefer to do just one at the moment - there are no economies of scale in doing 2 at the same time so If I do the faulty one first and I get a fault later at least I will know which one to do.

My car has only done about 57,000km and I have issues, mine seem to be closed acting like blanking plugs - a mates D3 lasted until 130,000km and when his went they locked open so the exhaust fumes were constantly being sucked into the inlet killing engine performance.

So is there a driving style that keeps the valves clear longer than another driving style and when do they open to allow exhaust gases in - under load or coasting?

Thanks

Garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Nick at Yeovil aka "The Large One".

Thanks - sent him an email. 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

mark hamster wrote:

had same trouble on mine..! how the aa guy worked it out was to take the black plastic cover off on top off engine and there is 2,one each side pipes with like a mesh on them.He felt them and got me to as well and one was warm and one cold.! im sure he said the one that was cold was the side thats not working..!!!! had it done at landrover last week£400 but still got same problem.!! looks like the other side going in to be done this week.! but reading post on hear say that once one goes the other normally goes pretty quick which i will have to agree.!!

had the aa out again this morning.! car really did not want to move when cold..! thinking it could be something bigger now,but aa guy took all of a minute to work out egr valve.! told him i had new one fitted which he said was not the problem,other side now..! he has temp blanked it till i get it booked in for repair but can not believe the difference.! like driving another car.! lucky for me joined the aa and when on phone joining,aa guy talked me into having breakdown repair cover.! they paid £365 of the £400 bill.! hoping they going to do same again.!!!!
bye the way my car done 36,000 miles also.!

Ady 555 wrote:

You can check which egr valve is faulty by lifting your bonnet, then get someone to switch on your ignition on to position 2 whilst you listen for two clicks in the engine compartment, there should be one click either side of the engine left and right hand side, if both egr's are working, if only one clicks, then the opposite one is faulty

Ok - tried this but there is a whole lot of buzzing and hums and other noises including clicks - so nothing distinctive.

mark hamster wrote:

! how the aa guy worked it out was to take the black plastic cover off on top off engine and there is 2,one each side pipes with like a mesh on them.He felt them and got me to as well and one was warm and one cold.! im sure he said the one that was cold was the side thats not working..!!!!

Well after putting up my previous post I thought I would go out and disconnect the electrical connectors to see if I could isolate the faulty valve. When I managed to disconnect the passenger side connector the check engine light went out and the code cleared - on restart the light came back on and then I got the code for the specific left hand EGR valve - hmmm. So the original code had gone.

On reconnecting the connector and clearing the left hand EGR code - all is now well - no check engine light or codes. It seems the issue was the connector to the EGR valve not the valve itself. A squirt of WD40 in the connector and all is well. Booking at the garage for tomorrow cancelled.

So it does pay to look for the easy things first.

I have learnt a lot from the process - thanks to every one for your input.

However has God played a trick on me and just lulled me into a false sense of security.

Cheers

Garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Glad you have got it sorted one way or another, but i would never spray WD40 on electrical connectors

Ady 555 wrote:

but i would never spray WD40 on electrical connectors

Ady 555 wrote:

Glad you have got it sorted one way or another, but i would never spray WD40 on electrical connectors

I'd rather use a spray that is more suited to electrical conponants, i arn't saying it can't be used, i just wouldn't use it myself. i know wd40 displaces moisture because it dries out the electical system quickly which i guess is a good thing, but moisture and electrics don't mix too well in the first place.

garrycol wrote:

It seems the issue was the connector to the EGR valve not the valve itself.

However has God played a trick on me and just lulled me into a false sense of security.

Cheers

Garry