I was looking to get a recovery rope (around 5 metres) and some shackles for the winter for my RRS as part of a winter pack to throw in the boot.

The shackles would go onto the chassis loops behind the plastic bumper panels as apparently those points are particularly strong.

But the straps I have come across are kinetic and I had been advised that they should only be used if you know what you are doing - and I most certainly don't.

So what I'm after is a rope/strap that is rated high enough to pull out a stuck RRS or be pulled out by the RRS without it being dangerous to use. I've heard twice the vehicle weight is right, so I guess at least a 5 ton rating.

Anyone know of a supplier of such straps ?

Thanks,

Andaval

Google Nylon Recovery Straps then follow the link to e-Bay. You want something with a safe working load in the region of 3 to 4 tonnes which will give you a breaking strain well in excess of even an RRS stuck on deep mud. Make sure the shackles you buy are also similar SWL , don't be tempted to buy small ones just because they are easy to handle, they will also break easily! RRS also has ideal storage for strops and shackles well wrapped in a jiffy bag or bubble pack so they don't rattle, under the small section of the rear seat so you don't need to leave them in a box in the boot, they can live under the seat for ever. Also BOW shackles would be better than "D" shackles. Nylon straps are easier to store than rope strops as you can wind them up neatly, they are easily available in any length you want as they are easy to make to measure and you want them with an eye in each end not as an endless loop. I have a kit similar to this for my Defender, it's more extreme than you want but it gives a good picture of a Bow shackle and a nylon strap! http://blog.promarkoffroad.com/2010/12/16/...and-nylon/
What most people call a Nylon recovery Strap isn't nylon by the way (it stretches too much like a kinetic rope) it is really polyester. I have 3 x 8m and 3 x 2m and 3 x 4m - cost me about £5 each with a test certificate brought from an industrial supplier rather than an off road equipment supplier 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
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Last edited by Tim in Scotland on Thu Oct 06 2011 10:28pm. Edited 1 time in total

makes great sense.

i have a towing bar which was great last year, but i like the idea of the nylon rope.

it's great to help people who get stuck! MY10 HSE 3.0 TDV6 : Santorini Black : Ebony Interior w/Anigre wood : Privacy Glass (total) : Sunroof : Sidesteps : Hybrid TV : Detachable Tow Kit : Spare Wheel Cover : 22" Dished Supersports

This is the sort of thing, maybe a little under SWL but it would do the job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emergency-Recove...364wt_1413
Be careful if you use a tow hitch rather than the RRS built in recovery point (the recovery point is designed for the job, tow hitches aren't and if they are the removable type could detach of their own accord if the pull is in the wrong direction, also they are "open" hooks so the strap can slip off, also if you have ever greased the tow ball then you will destroy your tow rope with the grease.

Also be very very careful recovering a car - many do not have a proper recovery point, what they have are loops of welding rod welded onto the chassis only intended for lashing them down to a transporter. Last winter I winched a SEAT Leon up a snow covered hill using the winch on my Defender - that car had a proper cast recovery eye that screwed into a special mounting behind a removable plate in the front bumper, I was very impressed, but most cars don't have such a useful feature 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
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Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

How does this one look for quality and value

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tow-Strap-4-5mtr...230aa82026 MY10 3.0 HSE Santorini Black, Ivory Premium & extended leather, privacy, paddles, diamond turned alloys, Ipod lead that charges, tasmods, rrsport.co.uk stickers

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Great stuff, guys - exactly what I was looking for and great tips on use and storage. This forum really knows its stuff.

Tim - hoping you can pour some extra knowledge on my ignorance. As the SWL of the example you found at 5,000lb is less than the RRS weight of around 7,000lb, but the breaking load is 15,000lb, would that strap be expected to eventually give out due to the load or am I being too pessimistic here ?

Having a look at various sites about loadings, it seems the SWL is generally expected to be 1/3 of the stated load capability. So if I have that right, would the strap mentioned by JC1 with a stated strength of 14,000kg (30,800lb) be expected to have an SWL of around 10,250lb ? Hope I've got that right.

I'll check out the products with the suppliers and hopefully that's job done.

Thanks again.

am I wrong or do you have access to the likes of ARB or TJM offroad products from Aus. They are expert in the supply and manufacture of recovery equipment. For general recovery the rating of the straps we use here are generally set at 6-8tonne and the bow/D shckles are rated at 4.5tonne and upwards. A reputable manufacturer's advertised rating can be relied upon whereas a stated rating from a dubious ebay supplier may let you down (or worse) when you most need success.

I don't understand your resistance to kinetic straps. They are far more effective in recovery circumstances and are more sympathetic to the vehicles at both ends. A non stretch strap would be more applicable to a towing situation after recovery from the circumstance you find yourself in.

regards....................frank my10D4se3Ltdv6 current
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In the back of the RRS I prefer to carry a recovery strap with forged hooks built in. Most of these will clip into the Sports recovery point and the recovery point on many cars. In my experience the use of shackles add risks as these can come undone (or not be tightened properly) and can get stuck (so you cant undo them if the are over tightened). And a loose shackle flying through the air is a very dangerous thing.

All passenger vehicles by law require a strong recovery point in addition to any lashing points. Virtually all of them now have a cast recovery eye that screws in to either the front or back bumper area and into the frame behind. The cast eye is usually stored where the vehicles jack or spare wheel is stored. And the screw in point is often hidden behind a plastic cover on or underneath the front and back bumper. I once had to recover dozens of cars from our village show ground (which is on a slope and after heavy rain the grass was so slippery no 2 wheel drive car could drive off the site). Everyone of the cars had one of these tow eyes although almost none of their owners knew what they were or where they were or where they went.

This is the type of strap I carry.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-TON-TONNE-TOWI...19c3991324

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOW-ROPE-BELT-3-...5d306b8742

The strap stores nicely under the rear boot floor.

If you want to be sure to be able to use it on all recovery points it is worth carrying a shackle as well (like this one).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SWL-6-5-ton-Galv...53da1c34c6

The secret of using these is to attach them, tighten the bolt all the way then undo it half a turn. This ensures that when you use it under load it does tighten the bolt to the point that you then cant undo it.

Recovering cars that are stuck in snow, or in a hedge or something similar can be a very dangerous activity. Many drivers have little idea what to do and may well be stressed by their situation. I have seen drivers leave their car in gear, steering lock on, hand brake on as they are being towed. Or they race their engine, suddenly get grip and fly into the tow car. Or worse, passengers, onlookers etc get into a dangerous position (without realising it) or other cars on the road drive past too fast, slide on the same ice etc. And as the recovery person, you can be seen as having in some way "taken charge" of the situation and may even be seen to be liable if something goes wrong. I am afraid I very carefully consider the risks and, if necessary drive away, or carefully explain to the person I am helping that I do so at their own risk etc. You then need to give them very clear instructions on what to do and establish a means of communicating with them as you recover them. Use of hand signals, the horn, a person standing to one side etc etc may all be necessary.

Kinetic straps are potentially very dangerous if used by people who don't appreciate how they work. A kinetic strap stretches, storing a huge amount of energy, then that energyy can be "unloaded" very quickly. I have seen this literally lift the recovered car skywards, much to the shock of those standing near by. They put enormous strains on the recovery points and shackles etc. I accept that in experienced hands they can be very valuable, and safe tools - but not to be used by or even near to inexperienced folk. RRS TDv8 HSE Rimini
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