Hi to all,i'm new to this forum and i have an important message to owners of the above vehicles.I am an experienced wheel aligner,and i am becoming alarmed at the geometric specs that are recommended for all Range Rovers and Discos that have the independent rear suspension.I have performed many wheel alignments on these models,and i can tell you with utmost precision that the recommended specs will prematurely wear your tyres.

Setting the toe-in to NEGATIVE will definitely scrub the inner edge of the tyres.Over 95% of all vehicles should have at least 0 or some positive toe-in with the main variable being the camber angle.All modern wheel alignment machines come with specs in the form of software etc.These software companies apparently get their figures from the vehicle manufacturers.In my personal opinion,over 50% of the data is INCORRECT! It should be noted that tyre wear doesn't seem to be a warranty item,and i've resetted specs on many new types of vehicles.

I'm sure there are owners of these fine vehicles that are unhappy with their tyre wear,and subsequent cost.Owners are welcome to PM me for specs that i use successfully to setup these vehicles for our own local dealer.

Hi OzWiz,
I've got a pair of badly scrubbed rear tyres on my recently aquired RRS, and got a new set ready to go on, please can you give me the settings you recommend? Specially toe in/out, but camber would be nice too. They're 255/55-19's if that makes a diference.
Sorry - can't pm you as haven't submitted enough posts yet.
Thanks and greetings from freezing UK!
Cheers, Pete

PB,since you asked so nicely,here are the guidelines for your wheel alignments.

Start with the rear camber which should be around the 1 deg negative a side.The wheels will have to be removed for this so i recommend getting the dealer to lock the suspension for the most consistent readings.Toe-in has proven to be effective at 2mm total(both sides combined) with the above camber.

For the front,make sure your balljoints and control arm bushes are good,then adjust the left camber to 1 degree negative and the right side .5 to .75 of a degree or 30-45 minutes of 1 degree negative.The caster should be around 4 degrees positive on each side with a slight variation to offset road camber.Tyre quality and radial pull can influence this factor.Set the toe to 1mm for each wheel or 2mm total.All toe must be positive,NOT negative as some recommend.

The 18" size tyres are much more forgiving to wheel angle errors than the 19 and 20" rim sizes.I've been horrified to see extremely expensive tyres worn after only 15,000klms.For these larger rims,i recommend at least 40psi of pressure in all tyres if you want any sort of life out of them.Regular rotation is the other crucial factor with these very wide and flat tread design.These last 2 factors can make or break your tyres lifespan regardless of w/a specs.Personally,i would rotate every 5,000klms,however the original tyres on these models were never designed to last long anyway.

Make sure you find a workshop who is willing to do a good job as per specs the first time and get a computer printout for the job to prove the settings are where you want them.My local Land rover dealer was so impressed with my success,they offered me a job working exclusively on their vehicles(Pacific Land rover in Queensland)

Let me know if i can assist any further.

Bernie.

Thanks Bernie, that's brilliant! I'll probably set the front casters equal as I do a fair bit of motorway and dual carriageway driving. Despite the present set up scrubbing out the rears at 18,000miles, the car runs straight and the front tyres have plenty of life left, so hopefully the front won't need much tweaking. Funny that the LR dealer didn't offer to do the alignment as per the TSB at the recent service...........
Many thanks again and hope it's not unbearably hot down in Queensland!!
Pete

To OZWIZ,
as you kindly posted about tracking and wheel alignment on this forum I wonder if you could advise me on setting up my L322 TD6 Range Rover.
It is currently wearing the outside edge on the rear N/S tyre.
My friend has offered me the use of his laser alignment equipment which he uses for setting race cars.

I do not know the procedure and required setup to check all four wheels, I would like to check all four wheels as I feel as if it tracks to the left as well as chews up rear n/s tyres. I have changed a track rod end and control arm bush and can find no other problems unless you can advise.

From Chris

Chris,i apologise for the response delay,as i never received notification for this one.I would say the camber on that wheel needs to be adjusted more negative.Also check the bush that connects the toe adjusting rod to the suspension arm for excessive float.

If the vehicle pulls left excessively,the LF tyre will wear outside edge,and the RF will wear inside edge.The 2 possible reasons are less caster on the left side than the right,or "radial pull" from the tyres.If it's radial pull,and the tyre design is non-directional,cross the wheels from left to right,otherwise set the camber/caster as per my post specs.Hope this helps,let me know if i can help further.

Bernie.

Hi ozwiz. Can these settings be used with 285/35/22"s on RRS 2008?? Cheers.

Hi Bernie
After a recent service my dealer recommended that I get the wheel alignment checked. It was a serious process involving the dealership locking the vehicle in some special mode (done using their LR computer) - once this was done it was taken to the Alignment shop. After the alignment, it had to be returned to the dealers workshop to be reset in the normal mode. Is this standard procedure? Does this special mode not affect the alignment settings?

I have found that the side tread scrubs off quite quickly if you really drive the vehicle - but it is a fantastic ride.
My tyres last about 20,000km - the low profile tyres (Continentals) are totally unsuitable for me. I'm trying to change to smaller 19' rims with slightly higher sidewalls.

Thanks for the heads up on the alignment.
Regards
Neil

Benidorm Mick wrote:

Hi ozwiz. Can these settings be used with 285/35/22"s on RRS 2008?? Cheers.

yep I'd like to know this too as mine is in at the moment

Me too Pleaseee, just put a set of 285/35/22's Toyo proxies on and taken a set of 20's off, started to get a steering wheel wobble at 50mph but goes when I hit 70mph. Was told it will be alignment /tracking/balancing and before I take it anywhere It would be nice to have the correct settings if possible. PS offset/ negative and camber etc etc is double dutch to me im a wee bit thick in the technical area .

Guys,thanks for your interest,i will post answers for all your questions this evening(it's morning here)

Here are the wheel alignment specs from LR.

Wheel Alignment Front

Wheel Alignment Rear

AG09 wrote:

Here are the wheel alignment specs from LR.

Wheel Alignment Front

Wheel Alignment Rear

NeilN wrote:

Hi Bernie
After a recent service my dealer recommended that I get the wheel alignment checked. It was a serious process involving the dealership locking the vehicle in some special mode (done using their LR computer) - once this was done it was taken to the Alignment shop. After the alignment, it had to be returned to the dealers workshop to be reset in the normal mode. Is this standard procedure? Does this special mode not affect the alignment settings?

I have found that the side tread scrubs off quite quickly if you really drive the vehicle - but it is a fantastic ride.
My tyres last about 20,000km - the low profile tyres (Continentals) are totally unsuitable for me. I'm trying to change to smaller 19' rims with slightly higher sidewalls.

Thanks for the heads up on the alignment.
Regards
Neil

Regarding wheel balancing issues,i've posted a relevant separate thread accordingly.