Just upgraded from a 2.7L TDV6 to the above. The new acquisition is a MY2011 3.0L Diesel.
As a precaution, I would want to renew the timing belt, tensioner and oil front seals.

Can someone who has done an oil pump swap on the 3.0L please tell me if it's a body off job, or can it be done in situ like the 2.7L.

I was told the oil pans are different, the 3.0L having a deeper oil pan making it impossible to drop it from below without first removing the engine.

Unless you want more oil pressure, I think you maybe inviting oil leaks.

I believe it can be changed in situ.
You are correct about the sump, but ppl don't remove the sump to do the pump.

erickwan wrote:

Just upgraded from a 2.7L TDV6 to the above. The new acquisition is a MY2011 3.0L Diesel.
As a precaution, I would want to renew the timing belt, tensioner and oil front seals.

Can someone who has done an oil pump swap on the 3.0L please tell me if it's a body off job, or can it be done in situ like the 2.7L.

I was told the oil pans are different, the 3.0L having a deeper oil pan making it impossible to drop it from below without first removing the engine.

Been there, done that, it’s not fun, especially if you have ACE.

I can say the oil pump has been updated since 2011. If you want another challenge the oil cooler has also been updated since 2011, plus the secondary turbo oil drain (ideal time to do it with the starter out). If you do the oil cooler throw a new coolant outlet at it as well.

You need to get the starter out to lock the crank/flywheel which is a massive PITA with the ACE lines where they are. The accessory bracket has to come out which has the intake pipes attached to it with the bolts in interesting locations. You get past those two things and it’s pretty clear sailing. Definitely use a crank and cam alignment kit. Be sure to prime the new pump with oil before installing. Be sure to get the timing belt tensioner marks properly aligned.

Totally doable with the body on. Totally doable with the sump on (LR workshop manual instructions don’t say to remove it).

If you ever do have to drop the sump you can do it by removing the front diff with the engine/body in place, also been there, done that.


[/img] 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Most useful and thanks to all who responded.
A new timing belt, bearings, oil seals and an oil pump will be fitted in March.

the whole thing is on you tube under LR Time ..recent one called major oil leak.
Why not just check the oil pressure and then only change the belt..you dont need the crankshaft nut off for that 240 ft lb

&t=433s Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
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