Hmm, I thought I’d replied to you last night but it seems it didn’t work.
Thanks for sharing your experience. It adds confidence 😊
We’ve got the vehicle back and pulled fuse 9 in the engine bay fuse box. That takes away the power to the controller resulting in the valve block hydraulically locking the anti-roll bars. We get a warning message every ignition on but the Ok button on the steering wheel clears it for the rest of the journey. Just have to make sure to top up the reservoir.
Handling is ok. More body roll through corners and a bit more rocky over undersurfaces but safe enough.
We are told the workshop now has now obtained the rear pipes and JLR should have the front set in a week or so.
Hopefully all fixed up for Xmas😊

Regarding your troubles, I recommend connecting the vehicle up to the proper JLR diagnostic tool. That will read the stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes for the system. . They will tell you where the controller is detecting a problem. It does not directly pinpoint the fault but tells you where to start looking. It’s unlikely to be a sensor, more likely is a dodgy connection.

so from what 83Series 3 says " but is neither alarming, nor in my view, dangerous"
Welding them up is the way to go or just take the belt off.
The $$$$ route is always available. Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

Ok, an update.
I finally got tired of waiting for the proper pipes to turn up, they still haven't after 4 months waiting - although they are always a week or so away. So we retrieved the vehicle back from the workshop.
I got Castle Hydraulics and Pneumatics Ltd in Warwick to make up a 750mm flexi pressure hose with standard 10mm olive fittings on the ends. Great service, they did it while I waited and it only cost £30.79. Chopped out the leaking section, cleaned up the pipe ends and bridged the gap with the flexi. Drove about for a few days with the ARC system fuse removed (Fuse 9 in the engine bay fuse box), keeping it topped up with oil. Eventually it didn't ned any more oil, replaced the fuse and hey presto, the system is working again with no error messages .
I think we got lucky and didn't get any air into the actuators. I checked out the bleeding process and it looks a pain, allegedly needing £600 of 'special tools'.
So vehicle back on the road. If another bit starts leaking I'll just get another flexi.
But when/if the proper pipes ever turn up then we will still get them all replaced. The vehicle is definitely better to drive with the system working properly so worth doing it right.

Brilliant mate ...I live in rugby and my mate has one with pipes so rusty I dare not touch them ...I coated with marine epoxy that soaks into the rust and covered with spiral wrap and waxoil ...I am waiting for him to tell me they are leaking after 5 years !!!! Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

What pressure rating did you ask them to supply ? Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back

The pump has a operational pressure of 165 Bar. Working pressure x 4 would give a hose burst pressure of
around 9500 psi.

Cheers
Col

“ What pressure rating did you ask them to supply ?”
I told them the working pressure was about 200bar and let them choose.