Hi guys, I'm having some problems with my 2005 2.7.. I went away for a couple of months over Xmas, before I went away I put it in the garage for a gearbox flush and service as was juddering. Whilst it was in the garage it was left parked up until I returned and so the battery died and was replaced and also the alternator.. I serviced it last week and its been driving lovely until today when 40 minutes into a trip all warning lights come up on the dash , clocks flickering , sat nav flickering on and off , hdc fault, special programs off etc etc.. took back to the garage to get plugged in and they reckon fuel pump Is on its way out. Seems much more like an electrical problem to me.. any ideas ??
Thanks for your help

could be the battery voltage is low did you charge the battery up once it went flat

Hi, thanks for your reply, it had a new battery put on it

I would still check the battery and charging rate,,, easiest option and one less area to look at,,,, battery terminals might be worth a look at to make sure they are still secure. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
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heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Thanks gogsy, have checked the terminals and they are secure, I will try and check that it's charging correctly tomorrow

I had new battery on mine I still popped it on charge as didn't know how long it had been stood on shelf for

Thats a very good point.. I had a friend plug his obd reader on today, majority of codes were regarding the transfer/gearbox control module and loss of communication with other things (not one code regarding the fuel pump) so am assuming it's a dodgy module or an earthing issue ?

You said they replaced the battery and the alternator; check the alternator connection as well. What voltage is the alternator putting out? 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Typically my multimeter broke as I went to check the output..I checked over the transmission control module behind the battery, it looked as if it was new inside and out so am thinking I can rule that out.

One thing I did notice this evening was after the car had been running fine for probably half an hour , I took it out of the garage and into the dark and noticed the rear lights ever so slightly flickering but definitely flickering .. sure enough , jumped in it and drove for about a minute and all clocks cut out , sat nav off and then a load of warnings..

Am I right in thinking it's definitely pointing towards alternator issues even though it's brand new ?

I wouldn't necessarily assume it's the alternator but checking the output wouldn't hurt. Ideally if you have a DC clampmeter and an multimeter you can check the current and voltage,, and check resting voltage of the battery,, if they're ok tick them off the list, then start looking for dodgy connections,, especially earths,,, put a couple of temporary ones in from battery to body and engine to see if things improve. After that I might begin towner about the cluster itself. If you can get access to a good reader,,, a few codes may save you sometime. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

I really appreciate your help, when I have time this weekend I'll check the alternator... today as I was driving I noticed the audio output was the first thing to go at the same time as an orange brake light (I think abs maybe ) flashing up, followed by a number of faults and lights coming on. I did also notice today that the brake wear sensor is hanging out so disconnected this to rule it out but no difference

Hi guys, quick update, I changed the brake light switch a couple of days ago , after driving for probably only a minute the traction control light came on with the yellow (p) and suspension light with the suspension lowering error. So my question is, is it likely that the new switch is faulty or that the old switch isn't reading something before it goes into a tantrum of lights ? If I swap the old switch back on I don't get the initial yellow park and traction control light etc

Thanks

Which garage are you using? 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Could be something really stupid like a brake bulb is out. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Hi, I originally put it in a local garage nearby that read the fault codes.. I unfortunately don't remember them all or have them written down but they quickly just plugged it in go to look and its booked in for Saturday. I did the brake switch myself but think it's a red herring as the original now working fine.

However i now have a basic obd reader that only reads live data..today I was reading "controle module voltage" and noticed it was fluctuating a lot and interior light was flickering .. ill attach a photo.. so maybe the new alternator had been faulty all along.. noticed when driving the voltage is stable under acceleration but fluctuates goes up fluctuating when I take my foot off the throttle..