So had the sump changed about 2 months ago with new filter and oil..

The old one was a plastic sump and it was changed for a metal one...its a RRS TDV6 2010....

Now just noticed small drops of oil on my drive and also at my parking space at work .... got it booked in for Monday...

It drives fine at the moment...no weird noises or vibrating or holding gears

Could it be a simple installation issue or something more adverse with the gearbox itself  RRS TDV6 2010

It's because of the metal pan. Many people do not replace the pan because they are to get to seal properly... Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

FFS I was told by the retailer that the metal one was better

So will I have to invest in a plastic sump lol RRS TDV6 2010

THE PLASTIC ONE required the cross member removing. This is the reason why the metal one is liked (as it's 2 parts).

You may want to get the bolts tightened first (or do it yourself!) before going plastic. Give it one last chance.

The plastic sump DOES NOT need the crossmember removing to replace

The metal sumps are easier to fit, but they are a to seal properly

FWIW, I only fit OEM plastic sumps

you need to remove the cross member to get a plastic sump back on there though,
don't you ?

When I changed to the metal pan I also changed the electrical connector seal which is where the leak on my RRS was from

Andy K wrote:

you need to remove the cross member to get a plastic sump back on there though,
don't you ?

Nope. Never removed it, even on the V8 diesels

rover75 wrote:

When I changed to the metal pan I also changed the electrical connector seal which is where the leak on my RRS was from

will get them to take a look  RRS TDV6 2010

go on Mike.

Tell me the secret I would love to get a plastic one back on mine.

Do youi jack the engine up slightly or something ?

Undo RH engine mount and lift engine

Piece of cake on a 2.7

Nightmare on a 3.6

Never done a 3.0/4.2/5.0 as yet

Mikey, you say the 3.6 is a nightmare. Is it mount removal or anything else? I’ve checked the crossmember bolts all undo but you say it’s unnecessary to remove it. I would have gone with a metal until I read your comments. Don’t want to take her out of action and strip it down to find it leaks afterwards, after all I’m trying to cure an unknown leak location following a double oil change. It could be the mechatronics sleeve but just can’t tell. All I know is I have drips on the drive and visible on the belly pan which are only getting worse. It has that many covers and brackets over it I just can’t see where it’s coming from without stripping it all down again hence my thinking of changing sump and sleeve, but under ramps and axle stands. Many thanks. 2007 3.6 HSE Java
2014 Evoque Dynamic Fuji 2.2 (SHMBO’s)
2000 Discovery 2 GS
1980 Series 3 2.25 petrol Rag top

leave the belly pans off it for a few weeks until you trace the leak and fix

Cheers Andy, I’ll try that. Haven’t long put them all back on the gearbox since my last clean up and inspection trying to find leak. I fear it might be the sleeve o-rings as nothing else has been disturbed and I know they can fail (as they do too on all other users of the box) but I’m not convinced yet. I just thought I might as well strip it and change the sleeve and sump for a metal one, to eliminate the obvious culprits, until I read above. Intrigued how Mickey did it to maintain the use of the plastic all-in-one sump and R/H engine mount method on the V8 D. 2007 3.6 HSE Java
2014 Evoque Dynamic Fuji 2.2 (SHMBO’s)
2000 Discovery 2 GS
1980 Series 3 2.25 petrol Rag top

Leak turned out to be orings on mechatronics sleeve had flattened over time. Leak wasn’t as obvious as I’d liked but couldn’t think of anywhere else it could be coming from. Fearing the job of removal and fitting a metal sump I thought I would have a go anyway.I Removed crossmember, jacked up transfer case by an inch, dropped plastic sump (jeez those T40’s are fun to remove at the front….not), easily revealed the white sleeve holding clip when sump dropped so unclipped old sleeve and fitted new one (another fiddly job one handed working blind with no blood in your arm). Inspected sump fixed magnets and were both clean only a slight dusting of grey residue that was barely worth mentioning when wiped. I bought a new sump gasket for the plastic sump thinking I would just change it if it leaked (read somewhere it is referred to as reusable seal….?) but I was just going to reassemble and see if it was indeed the sleeve leaking and not something else that required it all to be stripped out again but put all back together and refilled using ZF procedure and all has been good since. Just put all the heat/under shields back and completely dry. Took a day with breaks and waiting times for oil temps to be correct etc. I realise the filter is original but I went with the consensus from the g/box builders who say it only collects big bits in the event of component failure and doesn’t filter the oil like engine oil filter. Time will tell I guess but I took that decision over the extra hassle of removing plastic for metal in a diy ramp and axle stand setup. I’ve now done 3 partial drop and refills and despite never having any g/box issues (other than sleeve leak) you can hardly notice it change gear up or down so maybe another drop in 1000 or more miles and I think that will last probably as long as the car does. 2007 3.6 HSE Java
2014 Evoque Dynamic Fuji 2.2 (SHMBO’s)
2000 Discovery 2 GS
1980 Series 3 2.25 petrol Rag top