While driving home today my brakes went soft, so I found the drivers side rear brake line burst. I've had a look and not really sure what I'm looking at with all the dirt and rust around there.



From the pic, the lower line going out the right side of the pic is to the caliper, does this line go through the bracket then just held through with a clip? Is it a push in flexi line that is burst, maybe blown the joint seal?

Is this a simple fix for a garage or am I looking at a bigger job?

Cheers, 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Just a short pipe between the 2 rear flexis.

As long as they come out

Thanks, after quite a bit of searching I've found them, part no's LR021678 & LR021679 left & right. Earlier on I never got as far as removing the wheel, from that zoomed in photo I thought they were plastic pipes but nope, metal, which makes sense as more likely a corrosion burst.



I take it from your comment that they can be a bit of a pest to get out. 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

If those have gone check the metal pipes beyond …ie. under the car in front of the rear wheels..
JLR place a sponge rubber compound to stop them chafing…however it absorbs water and they are renowned for rusting behind the sponge.

As you have to change those metal pipes I would also change all of the rubber flexi hoses at the same time…

Isnt it recommended flexi hoses are changed every 7 years on a service schedule  2003 BMW M5 - 5 Litres of V8 Optimax Slurping Goodness in Carbon Black

2013 SDV6 HSE Black Edition- Orkney Grey with Ebony & Ivory. LR Facelift RAI, Genuine G4 Expedition Rack, 4x Warn SBD-160 Spotlights, Warn 9.5XPS Winch, Mantec Underbody Protection and Sump Guard, Full Easy Lift Suspension Module, LR Light Guards, Light Force HTX230 Hybrid spotlights, 18” Compomotive PD1881 on 265/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2, ARB fridge, TuffTrek awning 😎

Recommended brake fluid every 3 years and flex brake pipes every 6 years, but I bet there ain't many that get done.

Cheers
Col

Slightly different vehicle, but I have just changed the original flexible brake lines on my 23 year old motorcycle. No perishing or apparent weakness in the rubber on the old ones, just did it as I was refurbing the calipers and it seemed an opportune time. Have fitted braided connections which should certainly see both me and the bike out. Excellent service from Goodridge. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

Nemo mortalium omnibus horus sapit

I've had the front and rear flexis changed on mine, not because of any obvious degradation of the rubber but because the metal connectors were pretty rusty.

Grimble wrote:

Slightly different vehicle, but I have just changed the original flexible brake lines on my 23 year old motorcycle. No perishing or apparent weakness in the rubber on the old ones, just did it as I was refurbing the calipers and it seemed an opportune time. Have fitted braided connections which should certainly see both me and the bike out. Excellent service from Goodridge.

I looked into this a few years back when I changed mine and did look to see if anyone made braided lines for a RR Sport including Goodridge, and to my suprise I couldn’t find anyone making them  2003 BMW M5 - 5 Litres of V8 Optimax Slurping Goodness in Carbon Black

2013 SDV6 HSE Black Edition- Orkney Grey with Ebony & Ivory. LR Facelift RAI, Genuine G4 Expedition Rack, 4x Warn SBD-160 Spotlights, Warn 9.5XPS Winch, Mantec Underbody Protection and Sump Guard, Full Easy Lift Suspension Module, LR Light Guards, Light Force HTX230 Hybrid spotlights, 18” Compomotive PD1881 on 265/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2, ARB fridge, TuffTrek awning 😎

Thanks folks, it does sound sensible to replace the flexi's especially if the central metal pipe is being replaced anyway, and as long as the inner flexi comes away from the other end metal lines then it'd likely be an easier task anyway with not having to tryaand split corroded fittings, just cut.

Buckster, looks like there are now braided lines - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254501281171?ep...SwjLZeNuM0 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Buckster wrote:

Grimble wrote:

Slightly different vehicle, but I have just changed the original flexible brake lines on my 23 year old motorcycle. No perishing or apparent weakness in the rubber on the old ones, just did it as I was refurbing the calipers and it seemed an opportune time. Have fitted braided connections which should certainly see both me and the bike out. Excellent service from Goodridge.

I looked into this a few years back when I changed mine and did look to see if anyone made braided lines for a RR Sport including Goodridge, and to my suprise I couldn’t find anyone making them

I set to this brake pipe removal today (garage had a long wait list and I need the RRS on the road) and I found something I thought quite strange - the pipe had burst at both ends. I say strange as I can undertand it being corroded at both ends but surely one end would burst first, then the pressure wouldn't be as high to push through any other bit? Anyway I crimped/cut the pipe near the nuts and a 6 point socket was perfect to get it out thankfully with no drama, this surprised me with state it looked even after a wire brush/release fluid soak.
I'm hoping the metal and new flexi lines arrive in the post tomorrow, so I just put back in the crimped nuts to keep clean etc.

For bleeding, I remember my P38 required an elaborate bleed sequence if air got in the system, does the RRS have anything fancy to do or is it a standard bleed? I can't find my vacuum bleed kit (must have a garage tidy this winter) so it'll be the good old foot pumping pedal bleeding. 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Don’t forget to inspect the metal lines running up to the flexis in front of the rear wheels… they are also very prone to corroding! Particularly near the mounting clips where the lines are clipped to the body…

Thanks Farmer Chalk, I must have a better look at the rest of the brake lines once I can get over my inspection pit, what you say about the sponge stuff holding water makes sense. Currently I've a beautiful MF135 sitting over the pit surrounded by a heap of stuff which was a bigger task to clear than I have time for at the moment so I've currently got the RRS jacked up on the drive.
From what I see with the one wheel off is that the pipe that I think you mean is in very good condition, if it's the one going from the wheelarch area to in under the car centre and then after a connection seems to disappear to the front. It's just the metal pipe between the two flexi's that is in bad condition. I did order parts for both sides on the assumption it'll likely be in a similar state (I never actually looked yet). 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

Sounds like you are looking at the right pipe. It you get an opportunity to spray them with under seal … it’s definitely the pipe that runs back from the engine bay.