Anyone have any experience of this issue on a L494? Land Rover, in their divine wisdom, don't fit a good old fashioned dipstick to their cars any more and I've just discovered that I've been relying on an electronic dipstick that's now announced to me that it may be faulty. Hopefully it's a new fault and it doesn't mean that the car has been falsely measuring oil level for a while!

Light is off now, but I obviously can't risk driving the car until it's been properly checked out. I'm guessing this will also be a big job if it needs a new sensor - I'm sure it will turn out that half the engine has to be removed in order to get to it!

Has anyone else had this fault? Car is a 2015.

Thanks. 2014 3.0 SDV6 HSE Corris Grey with Ebony/Cirrus
2012 4.4 TdV8 Westminster Orkney Grey/Ivory
GONE - 2012 SDV6 HSE Luxury Orkney Grey/Ivory
GONE - 2006 3.0 Td6 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue/Parchment

We've changed a few of the oil level sensors. It's an engine out job as it is located in the sump and can't be accessed in situ.

Are you getting any oil level reading? Joe

Hi Joe,

Really appreciate your response thanks. The problem seems to be an intermittent one, in that the warning disappeared when re-starting the engine and the electronic ‘dipstick’ is showing good oil level. I’m hoping that a diagnostic may throw up a more general glitch that’s causing the warning to show - I’ve just remembered that I’ve also had a couple of other issues recently, including the sat-nav map blanking out for a time. Again, this issue resolved itself with a recycle of the ignition. so maybe there’s something else causing both errors?

Car is with my local independent today, so here’s hoping they can come up with something other than a faulty oil sensor!

Thanks.

Phil 2014 3.0 SDV6 HSE Corris Grey with Ebony/Cirrus
2012 4.4 TdV8 Westminster Orkney Grey/Ivory
GONE - 2012 SDV6 HSE Luxury Orkney Grey/Ivory
GONE - 2006 3.0 Td6 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue/Parchment

Resurrecting an old post, was there any resolution to this issue? Got the exact same issue.

Oil level is showing OK, was only serviced 4 weeks/1000miles ago. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

Nemo mortalium omnibus horus sapit

Underlying fault appears to be oil ingress into the wiring loom inside the sump, same as Td5 suffered from

However, I've not been brave enough to try just a loom on its own, as the sensor is only a few quid extra, for the enormous amount of labour involved

How critical is this? Can I still rely on the electronic dipstick showing a true reading?
I have only had the car a month so I'm hoping its covered by the sellers warranty.

Wanting to get as many facts as possible before calling them. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

Nemo mortalium omnibus horus sapit

If you've only had it a month then the selling dealer is likely responsible anyway under consumer protection laws. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Maybe a good idea the check the external connector on the side of the sump for damage or water ingress. Water is a conductor whereas oil is an insulator.

The connector is located on the driver's side of the sump towards the front. Joe

Thanks to all for your input, going in to an indy near me on Friday. Will let you know the outcome both technically and financially. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

Nemo mortalium omnibus horus sapit

Only had my 2014 RRS 10 days and been unable to get oil reading just says not available. IID shows below.

Sensor, wiring, plug, harness. Take your pick.

It's actually fairly easy to work out if you need to take the sump off if you have a spare sensor like we do.

Using the handy (working) spare sensor and sump wiring, you place it in a jug deep enough so that you have at least 50cm between the top of the sensor and the top of the jug. The reason for this is that the sensor works like sonar and emits a 'ping' upwards, which in turn bounces off the surface of the oil back to the sensor. So fill the jug up with oil, clean or dirty.






Now the tricky part. The plug is the usual 3 pin configuration; feed, signal & earth and you can use a multi-meter to measure the signal once you've hooked it up to a battery.
Or
Make yourself up a 3 wire extension lead and plug one end into the sensor wiring and the other into the engine loom where it would normally plug into the side of the sump.

We do the first option on all our engine rebuilds before the sump is assembled. Nothing worse than having to take the engine out after fitting it to replace the sensor/wiring because it was faulty.

The second option is perfect for checking that the engine loom to ECU to dashboard is working correctly. Joe

Thanks Joe for that.
Im booking it in for diagnosis. If it were to have the engine out my belts are due in 12 months is it a much easier job to get those sorted a year earlier and save some costs?
Still amazed it engine out for such a simple cheap part.

Fingers crossed for my diagnostic tomorrow. Good tip from Oval, shame you are not closer.
Like Drewlr4, I too am amazed that for a part prone to failure by definition (hot oil, plastic and electronics) it is not an easy job to replace.
I'd get your belts done at the same time, irrespective of the mileage, the cambelt has a 7 year life recommendation. RRS HSE Dynamic SDV6 2014

Nemo mortalium omnibus horus sapit

Plan is to get belts done but 7 years takes me to next November. But if it was engine out and belts could just be put on simply and easily with next to no additional labor costs it would be a wise decision. I just don't know the answer to that though.

The recommended time for belts to be changed is the maximum time between changes.

Important note
Timing belt replacement intervals quoted by the manufacturer should be regarded as the maximum. Due to variations in vehicle usage and operating conditions the belt may need to be replaced earlier than specified.
If there is any doubt as to the serviceability of the belt and its associated components, they should be replaced.
It is important that you consider the items listed in the section below and discuss them with your customer.

So an early change won't do any harm and yes, engine out makes the back belt (pump) a doddle. Any decent garage would probable add an extra hour (or free time) for doing the belts while the engine was out.

Maybe consider an oil pump change at the same time. Much easier and done properly with the sump off. Joe