i love this truck, but the charging sage continues.

They found that the engine compartment fuse box had issues. the seat for a 5 amp fuse was bad. the fuse was good, but it was not seating correctly due to a faulty fuse box. No power was getting through. The correct fix, replace the entire wiring loom, with integrated That is not in the budget. A fix that they recommended, but that they could not do, was to install a fuse bypass. They couldn't do it due to insurance issues. I ended up installing a wired fuse holder and a 5 amp fuse. That fixed that problem, but not all problems...

My alternator is showing 14.5+ when I measure directly off of the alternator positive post. I show 13.4 or below at the battery terminals. my Gap Tool shows 13.4 or less. As I drive the voltage drops. As it drops, certain electrical components start to shut off, the cooler box is the most obvious. As the voltage drops in the mid 12 range, I notice some transmission jerking-type symptoms, almost like it hiccups a bit. I notice it mostly on the freeway, but noticed it on a side street going about 35 mph a few days ago, I probably had not noticed because our roads are so cracked and filled with potholes! Nice work San Diego, but that is a story for another day.

I checked every fuse in the engine bay, all good. I tested the voltage on the battery with the truck running it starts at 13.2 to 13.4 and then slowly starts to drop. after about 15 minutes while sitting in the driveway, it dropped to 12.6.

I am thinking that is something to do with the positive battery cabling coming from the alternator and going to the battery. I still have to check the battery cable fuse in the square rectangular box attached to the positive battery cable. It may be a bad connection on the side wire that comes off of the main positive battery cable, not sure where that connects.

Has anyone experienced a bad positive battery cable before? Any ideas, clues or suggestions. thanks Phil