Hi all,

Recently noticed a small oil patch on the drive to the rear of my 55 plate RRS.
Initially I thought it was the diff seal but on further inspection it seems to be coming from a unit just forward of the diff on the drivers side.



Seems to be coming from the corroded U-bend hose attachment.

What is this unit I'm looking at?

Thanks in advance.

Mike.

Rear ACE pipes

Ahh ok. So this is the hydraulic unit for the Dynamic Response system to stop body roll.

So the patch on my driveway is actually PAS fluid. That would explain my banging headache after being under there breathing it in.

Cheers Mikey. Thanks for the quick response.

Let's hope it's just the pipes.


Mike.

Looks like it is the pipe and I'm told the whole body has to be lifted off.
I thought the rear pipes could be changed without lifting the body? Thought it was only the front pipes that require that.

If that's the case I'm wondering if it's worth it on a 55 plate. I'm guessing lifting the body off is a huge task and very costly?

For now I've pulled the fuse to the Active Roll to disable the ecu and valve block and that seems to have reduced the leak significantly to a slow drip. Is it ok to drive around like that for now until I decide what to do?
Obviously the pump will keep running with the engine but I'm guessing it's just bypassing with the fuse pulled?

Mike.

There seems to be a fear of the body lift, but it's not that big an issue. The body is designed to be lifted and, if the garage doing it knows what they're doing, is no big issue. It's a couple of hours each way so not a big cost either really as it makes access a doddle so making some jobs a lot easier/quicker too. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thanks for the reply. Comforting to know.
I'll get a quote. Thinking it'd be wise to change front and rear pipes if the body is being lifted.
If the back ones have gone the front ones will follow suit. Filter change in the valve block & fresh fluid too.

What do you think about driving around with the fuse pulled. Will that cause any issues with the pump?

Mike.

It’s not a body off job

I have just had all my ACE system removed and converted back to standard with new parts, £1100.00 but no more leaks or warning lights!

Hi all,

I did eventually get round to doing this. Got pipes and did it myself in the end. No garage seemed to want to touch it and all kept talking about lifting the body off. I managed to do this on axle stands so I'm sure it would have been much easier for a garage with a pit and proper vehicle lift.
As Mikey said it can be done without lifting the body but did involve bending the pipes a bit and getting them in and out between the narrow gap between the body and chassis was a complete %$!*$!#. Not helped by the U shaped union on the end that acted like a hook which attached itself to anything within 10 feet and wouldn't let go.
Most of it you can't actually see so have to work by feel.
One of the union bolts was badly corroded and the torx fitting was knackered. Had to hammer & chisel it to get it turning then replaced with a new stainless bolt.
I did think about dropping the driveshaft off at one point to make things easier but managed to work around it with some uncomfortable contortion.
The last bracket which holds the pipes before the flexible hoses was a pig to get at.

All sorted now and no leaks.

One slight issue remains. Most of the air I've worked out of the system by driving and topping up again but there seems to be some air in the rear actuator which I can't get out. There's a faint sucking/hissing noise only when I turn left.

Any ideas how I might get rid of this air?

I've heard there's software you can get to make it do the ACE system bleed dance?

Thanks in advance.

Mike.

Thanks for feeding back Mike! And well done for DIYing it! Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Cheers Kev.

Just need to get this last bit of air out now.