Hi guys I'm new to this site and am looking for advice.
I've recently acquired my first range rover, lovely car with one nagging problem. I encountered a clunking noise coming from the nearside rear when pulling away from a stop condition traffic lights roundabout etc there was an advisory on the mot for worn bush/pin same area which I assumed was the problem.got that replaced didn't resolve the issue so took it back to the dealers they booked it in at a nearby specialists they use did checks heard the clunking noise the guy said he swapped the wheels back to front front to back which didn't resolve the issue so I took it back again they had it for over 2 wks and changed arb bushes picked it up yesterday got to my first set of lights and heard it again !!. I know nothing about cars was wondering if anyone has had this same issue and could maybe shed some light on what the problem could be before I return it again. The cars under warranty and drives like a dream this one nagging issue is driving me nuts as they don't seem to be able to bottom it.
Thanks in advance guys any info is greatly appreciated

Hard to say bud but it sounds like the bushes have been checked/replaced and if everything else is tight, I can only think your ARB needs bleeding or replaced. Does it look like any part of the dynamic response system has had work done? 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Wouldn't be something simple like the n/s/r harmonic damper (big swinging lump of metal attached to chassis) just touching the chassis or exhaust when pulling away.


Cheers
Col

Dynamic response system ? Sorry pal way over my head like I said I know nothing about cars suppose I need to read up on this stuff. Just disappointed with the specialists not finding the problem when they had it so long. The specialist heard the noise the 1st time he looked at it so can't understand just want it bottoming
Thanks for replying

Thanks col
He did say he'd checked in that area pipe runs etc looking for that type of issue so I would be thought he's eliminated simple causes.all bushes etc are tight as well no issues with them in that area.maybe another specialist is what's needed.i don't know

Does it happen even with the most gentle of starts or just when a bit of right foot is used? I'm wondering if the harmonic mass damper is hitting something when you pull away sharply. This is one of a pair of big lumps of cast steel that sit over the rear chassis members above the tail pipes each side of the car. It is free to move in a rocking direction front to rear. If this is moving under acceleration then it might be just knocking against the rear exhaust box or something else (not much there to hit but it's not unknown). Worth a look - you can do it on your drive. Wear some goggles if you've going to have a look as it will likely drop crud in your face when you're under the back. You can see the weight and move it easily by hand. Try it through its full range of movement to see if it touches anything. Two minutes to check and totally free.

Other than that, it's a suspension arm bush. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

I take it the rear prop shaft centre bearing has been checked, big rubber donut with the prop shaft running through the middle. The rubber separates from the outer bearing allowing the prop shaft to bang up and down . Easy to check by looking under the car, may have to remove a sheild.

Hi
Yea the propshaft bearing was checked that's ok. I'll have a look at the harmonic damper this weekend but I think that's been checked too.

Guys an update on my issue.my independent specialist drained the rear diff and refilled twice which I'm pleased to say seems to have cleared the clunking noise.although a few days later I get the 3 amigos on the dash and HDC fault transmission fault special programs off suspension lowered !! Error codes are P0806 & P080a clutch position not learnt he's tried to update the rear diff but them 2 error codes remain any ideas ?? But hey the clunks gone !!! My Swede is mashed only had the car 4 months

I may be completely wrong but here goes anyway,

On the Freelander they commonly have the three amigos and a little search shows that the same fault
is part of the LR3 and the Range Rover Sport, I changed the brake light switch on my Freelander once
and it fixed the dash lights (three amigos)..

Its a simple and relatively inexpensive job so maybe this will sort your issue?

https://youtu.be/SGdw7dwMB7g

https://www.eurocarparts.com/car-switch-and-car-sensors

Check the part first,,not sure its the right one for your car..

Good Luck ===========================================
2012 Range Rover Sport Autobiography 3.0 SDV6 8 speed Automatic
Indus Silver with Hockenheim premium two-tone leather Ebony/Lunar,

You say he "reset" the rear diff. Was that a calibration of the diff actuator or just clearing the codes?

A calibration would be a starter, as would checking the wiring. The second code suggests a wiring problem as it is open circuit. If you can't find a wiring issue then a new actuator is required. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Hi thanks for replying
Yes it was a calibration of the rear diff which fails each time with the errors I quoted. He thought the double flush might have cured it but no. It could be a multitude of things going off what people say on this forum I suppose I better get it booked in and let them find what's causing the errors. Hope it's something simple like a brake switch or a sensor. Time will tell
Thanks for the info

The two error codes you quoted appear tp relate to the rear diff actuator. I'm not aware why a failed brake switch will throw up those codes.

If the rear diff won't work properly then Terrain Response won't work properly. If TR isn't working properly then HDC won't want to play either. These systems are all interlinked - very effective when working, a pain in the arse to navigate when something goes wrong. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Hi
If it is the actuator can that be replaced without replacing the rear diff ? Or am I talking cxxp ??

I assume they refer to the motor that drives the internals. It's bolted to the outside of the diff with 4 bolts plus a loom connector. The internals are mechanical - two arms driving a ball ramp that presses the clutch plates together to give the locking action. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed