So clearly I am an unlucky sod. I have been aware of the potential timing chain issues on the MY10 - MY12 V8's, but having owned my RRS from 60 000km to its current 115 000km with not a single issue I thought I would escape the issue. Three weeks back on a sunday morning the car stopped quietly as always, when I started her up she was a diesel. I nursed her back home and the noise disappeared. I ran a scan and saw the camshaft position error, started her up and she now ran on three cylinders and then died sounding like a bag of tin cans. So onto a flat bed and off to my indy.
Result - body off,32 bent valves, new timing chain tensioner, sprockets, guides etc etc, total bill R 80 000 (4000GBP)
The positives - I renewed the waterpump, the plastic coolant pipe behind the heads, fitted a low water level warning buzzer, and did the supercharger solid bush mod (replacing the nose bearing). Have her back now and she is very smooth and quiet , the supercharger whine is epic...
Hopefully that will be it for a while....

Sorry to hear that Ham, but hopefully she'll be good for a very long time now  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

A bit late for you Ham, but this may be useful for others:

courtesy of GT40 from the SA 4x4Community forum: https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showt...-procedure

Quote:

I have just completed this job on my 2011 L322 SC with 138000km on the clock. I came across this revised/new official Land Rover/Jaguar procedure to replace the guides and tensioners only which is very straight forward and will be considerably cheaper than the old method which included removing the supercharger, injectors and cam covers. This is preventative maintenance and does not apply if damage has already taken place.

The procedure applies to all Land Rover/Jaguars that use the 5.0L V8 - Supercharged and normally aspirated. The only specialised tool needed is for removing the crankshaft pulley. The bolt is very tight but its the pulley that needs some kind of puller to remove. Its a very tight fit but easy to remove with the right tool.

The attached files are from the Jaguar manual so may contain a few differences to our Range Rovers and D4's but are essentially the same. I have not seen this procedure posted here yet and hope that it will help ease the worries that many members have over this problem.

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...%20Set.pdf
http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...Pulley.pdf

a more detailed write-up here: https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-...ethod.html --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ