I'd originally been planning fitting DRL's for the safety benefit, but decided to go with changing the settings in the ccf to Canadian. Once the engine is started and handbrake released then the dip lights come one - I'd recon nearly as good as DRL's? Of course they go off if you apply the handbrake at a junction/lights etc. (I can't remember if there's a connection to the Park/Drive aswell), but it never happens at night with having auto lights. 13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

The Scandinavian one is not park brake dependent but I think you have the right balance

insiorc wrote:

I'd originally been planning fitting DRL's for the safety benefit, but decided to go with changing the settings in the ccf to Canadian. Once the engine is started and handbrake released then the dip lights come one - I'd recon nearly as good as DRL's? Of course they go off if you apply the handbrake at a junction/lights etc. (I can't remember if there's a connection to the Park/Drive aswell), but it never happens at night with having auto lights.

Yes, I have the GAP iiDTool to access the ccf.

After Andy K's post above I had a read to see why I chose Canadian. Scandinavian only works with the lights in the off position, whereas Canadian works in all positions which allows me to retain all auto functions including full beam. Scandinavian would mean manual control of the lights. Where I live it's very seldom I have the handbrake on unless actually parking as the only traffic lights we have on the Island is for roadworks  13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

So does that just turn on the led marker lights at front plus lights at the back?
Just looked at the tool prices, ouch!!

Meiang wrote:

There is no ignition on wires on the plugs which connect to the headlamps on the upgrade L320 as indicated by others (I have tested this in practice). Powerfull UK indicate to use the adaptive cruise loom connection (the picture above is from their website). However this contradicts with their wiring connections list which indicates to use wires which go to the headlamp plugs.

Out of curiosity I have just checked my MY13 5.0L S/C A/B RRS1 and Pin Number 14 Red and Black wire in the N/S Headlamp Plug Is Definitely a Ignition Live it stays Live with just the Ignition On, with the Engine Running and with the Lights turned on, however it would appear to stay live even with the ignition off until you lock the car and let it go to "sleep", if you unlock it before it has had time go to "sleep" it appears to become live again without the ignition on, quite strange really, but that maybe something to do with switching ignition on and off, same with the lights etc. with headlamp disconnected, as sure it didn't do it when I first tested it, may have got the car confused because I am.

Cheers
Col

jason-nike wrote:

So does that just turn on the led marker lights at front plus lights at the back?
Just looked at the tool prices, ouch!!

Quote
"Out of curiosity I have just checked my MY13 5.0L S/C A/B RRS1 and Pin Number 14 Red and Black wire in the N/S Headlamp Plug Is Definitely a Ignition Live it stays Live with just the Ignition On, with the Engine Running and with the Lights turned on"

Definitely no ignition live on wire on Pin 14 on my 2010 TDV8. It may be model dependant, location dependant or options dependant.

Looking at wiring diagram it looks like it is all related to the AFS headlights (Dynamic Bending Motor) so if you don't have this option that maybe the reason, could check if there are fuses fitted to position 49 & 50 as these are the AFS one's, might be a case of fitting a fuse and it becoming live, wouldn't know just a thought.

Cheers
Col

[quote="insiorc"]Yes, I have the GAP iiDTool to access the ccf.

After Andy K's post above I had a read to see why I chose Canadian.

I think you will find that the reason the lights extinguish when in not in gear/parked etc is purely down to electrical load balance. Imagine in cold weather, Air Con, heated seats, plus head lamps etc and the engine only at idle. Not mush charge if any going into the battery. In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

I looked in the CCF files a couple of years ago at the DRL options, below is a extract from the post I put up then.


Have gone into the CCF files and there are three options listed on my car a MY13 A/B 5.0L S/C.

1. DRL Standard
2. Scandinavian
3. Canadian

I activated Standard and all that did was give me two Fault Codes B124A-15 and B124B-15 which are Left and Right Daytime Running Light open Circuit but no working DRL's so it may be when you have either DRL lamp kit VPLSV0064 or 65 fitted you may have to activate this but that is purely a guess. By the way those kit's are over �400.00

De-activated that and then activated Canadian and what that did was nothing with ignition on and Engine Running, however when you engage Drive and let the Park Brake Off it Switched Front and Rear Side Lights and Dipped Headlights On, as soon as you apply P/B and take it out of Drive It switches them Back Off.

Again De-activated that and Activated Scandinavian and what that did was as soon as you Start Engine it Switched on Front and Rear Sidelights and Dipped Headlights.

There is no facility that I could find to just activate the Front Fairy Lights on there own as DRL's.

Cheers
Col

Col wrote:

Looking at wiring diagram it looks like it is all related to the AFS headlights (Dynamic Bending Motor) so if you don't have this option that maybe the reason, could check if there are fuses fitted to position 49 & 50 as these are the AFS one's, might be a case of fitting a fuse and it becoming live, wouldn't know just a thought.

Cheers
Col

You are I have been round this previously, and neither of us remembered

As you say only cars fitted with AFS have the ignition supply.

Cars without AFS aren't wired, so it isn't just a case of adding fuses.


Canadian setting is fine. You won't annoy anybody having the lights go on and off, and you need to select both Park and brake on for lights to go off.

Well I ordered some flexible drl strips to see what they are like.
Tested how bright they are and are very bright indeed.
They can be fixed around curves etc so are good to go.
Just need to see how to fix them inside headlights to give an original factory style finish

Hi Jason, interested to know if you managed to get into your facelift headlights and fit the DRL strips? 2010 3.0 TDV6 HSE Luxury - Santorini Black - First RRS and lovin’ it

Ive not had chance to do this yet, I do have some clear dry strips to put in now, but thinking of changing to a 2015 RR so may not do this.
Will see how things go.
I did the dry rings on my 2006 RRS I had, fairly easy to do