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Stretch



Member Since: 10 Jul 2017
Location: Scotland
Posts: 14

Front Ace pipe replacement

Hi,

My Ace pipes have burst, OSF wheel just by the driveshaft.

Ive priced the parts not to bad at all but before i delve intro replacing them is anyone aware of tips/tricks ? Looks like the front end of the body will need raising a bit to get enough space ?

Post #532166 Sun Aug 06 2017 2:59pm
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Jaggs



Member Since: 09 Aug 2015
Location: Leeds
Posts: 259

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Java Black

Not sure what you ve priced but I understand it's almost as cheap to replace the front as a set of 4 instead of individual parts, you may be doing this anyway.
These were all on back order a while ago have you found stock ? Nanocom Evo

Post #532167 Sun Aug 06 2017 3:14pm
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Disco_Mikey



Member Since: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 4405

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport Supercharged HSE Santorini Black

They are a fight PITA Evil or Very Mad

Allow a full day, if you have not done them before.

Be aware that if the pipes going into the valve block are seized, you are in for a whole world of Censored

On the plus side, it's a very similar procedure for all 2.7/3.0/3.6 models Thumbs Up

Post #532168 Sun Aug 06 2017 3:47pm
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Stretch



Member Since: 10 Jul 2017
Location: Scotland
Posts: 14

Yes i priced the set, the other 3 are rotten too so may as well do it right. As far as i know they are in stock i phoned Pentland at Newbridge (Edinburgh) and they didn't mention anything about being on back order.

I've not done a set before, is it a case of lifting the body a bit ?

Post #532184 Sun Aug 06 2017 8:20pm
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Stretch



Member Since: 10 Jul 2017
Location: Scotland
Posts: 14

Just any FYI, but the pipes are in stock.

I ordered them the other day and they arrived next day.

Battle commences tomorrow Very Happy

Post #533335 Sun Aug 20 2017 5:00pm
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Stretch



Member Since: 10 Jul 2017
Location: Scotland
Posts: 14

Just to follow this up, job completed. Started and finished in 8 hours.

Wasn't too hard at all, lifted the body up about three inches and wiggled them out/in

Mike you are right about the pipes into the valve block, complete Censored to get them out without damage to the block and seals.

I found the hardest thing was the Censored 8mm bolt that is hidden behind the chasis/knuckle area that holds the bracket. What a Censored that was to remove.

Post #533902 Sun Aug 27 2017 11:27am
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TheSaturnV



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Flyover Country
Posts: 7

United States 

Nice work! Can you elaborate on raising the body? Did you just remove some bolts and jack it up? One side only? What area did you place the jacks?

Thanks!

Post #534285 Fri Sep 01 2017 4:15pm
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Stretch



Member Since: 10 Jul 2017
Location: Scotland
Posts: 14

It was all pretty straight forward.

(note i had it on a ramp) but front end up so the wheels are off the ground, OSF wheel arch liner removed.

Removed the front bumper, removed the first 6 body mounting bolts and loosened the next two leaving them in a few threads don't need to loose the rear most bolts at the back bumper.

I used a transmission jack and put it directly on a piece of the body near the OSF wheel arch and lifted it up about two inches. Then i placed a bottle jack on the body sill directly below where the ACE pipes go and pumped it up some more which gave me some more space. With that done you can wriggle the body mounting pad out beside the ace pipe and bingo all the space you need to change them.

Post #534689 Wed Sep 06 2017 5:49pm
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TheSaturnV



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Flyover Country
Posts: 7

United States 

Thank you!

Only 8 bolts holding the body on!

Does OSF mean opposite from the RH driving position?

I suppose on a US model it would be the driver side wheel arch to remove.

Post #534841 Sat Sep 09 2017 3:12am
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