Hi guy new to the forum but am experiencing major issues with my range rove sport

To it started losing power when going up hills it will then die and need to be restarted.

It is now not idling right at all it's runni g around 500rpm and if you rev the car it will slowly decrees in rpm and die.

I have stripped all the inlet manifold to check for air leaks

Checked all coil packs with multimeter
Drained fuel system and put fresh petrol in

Fitted new maf sensor

Fitted new o2 sensors

Tested all injectors all fine

Still having no joy with this issue at all

The car just sounds like it's running on 4 cylinders.

I have a hawke eye diagnostic but it's not showing anything

The fuel pressure is showing 450kpa on ideal is this correct

And help is appreciated

Thanks in advance

Does it have lpg

Yes it does mate runs the same on lpg as it does on petrol
Thanks

Does it have a lube system and would you know how many miles it has done on lpg as these engines are know to suffer with valve seat recession but there are other options to try first

I know it does not have the valve saver . I belive it's done around 40k on it since fitted I've had it about 8 months not and never had a fault with
It till now

If it is the valves what's the best way of checking them out I can pull the inlet again and boroscope down the ports not sure if i would see anything tho. I'm usually pretty good with cars but this range has got me puzzled as you can imagine

Thanks again for your help mate

Compression test of each cylinder?

Yeah check compression as you have tried a few things or you could try moving the coil packs around as see if that makes a difference how many miles on her and what's the service history like

Will the compression show duff valves ? If so that my first option in the morning.

I did try swapping the packs around but no joy

It would intitally run great for around 2 miles then start to play up but now it's every time I start the car it's lumpy and has no power . Although there is no smoke out of the exhaust . Would there be if the valves were shot

It has 5 years delarer service but independent dealers after that.

Do the compression test at least it will rule the valve seats out

Will do that first thing . Will let you know how it goes later on

Just done the compression test mate all showing between 160 and 175 psi

So that doesn't seem to be an issue mate

Any other ideas ?

I'm not an engineer or an LPG fitter and have only experience of diesel RRS but from reading posts on here about LPG there seems to be a variety of operating systems for LPG installations - is yours the sort that starts the car on petrol and then when warmed through automatically changes over LPG? If the misfire only occurs at that stage I would suspect either a leak in the LPG system or the change-over valve/s have a problem, or the control unit has failed possibly. Do you get the problem when only running on Petrol? 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Well the car getting better slowly haha

It's no no fer cutting out when on idle but as soon as you rev it over 4k it starts to bog as if there not enough fuel going to it
Any ideas guys

It won't allow the lpg to kick in but there was no difference when the lpg did work.

Now in just lost

Can you get hold of a smoke tester and see if you have any air leaks or use a brake cleaner to spray around the intake area to see if there are leaks as you have no codes on it should not be rallt as you would then get some p codes as to be too lean or it may be a blocked fuel filter

Tim as far as i know they all start on petrol then change over to gas