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Goffie01



Member Since: 19 Nov 2013
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 20

United Kingdom 2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey
DAsh creaking

I had a Disco 4 with a Dash creak which the dealer had 4 times and never fixed. Now have 13 MY RRS with the same Dash and guess what it creaks. Booked in to see if they have learnt how to fix in the 5 years since my Disco 4. 50% of noise is coming from LWR glove Box. tried a bit of grease on catch but still the same. Any suggestions please.

Post #501749 Wed Jul 27 2016 6:48am
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Jimbob36



Member Since: 13 May 2016
Location: Melton mowbray
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Zermatt Silver

Wrap some insulating tape around the pivot pins! Amazed the problem still exists!

Post #501783 Wed Jul 27 2016 9:12pm
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Goffie01



Member Since: 19 Nov 2013
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 20

United Kingdom 2013 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

Cheers. What do you mean by pivot pins (Hinge Pins) ? Maybe.

Post #501789 Thu Jul 28 2016 6:01am
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Jimbob36



Member Since: 13 May 2016
Location: Melton mowbray
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Zermatt Silver

Yep. I'm still trying to work out how to stop the upper opening boot section rattling! If I wind out the buffers too much it puts a lot of pressure on it.

Post #501791 Thu Jul 28 2016 7:37am
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Meiang



Member Since: 29 Apr 2011
Location: Perth
Posts: 402

Australia 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Santorini Black
Rear Glass Hatch Rattling

When I took delivery of my new 2010TDV8 back in Dec. 2010 it a bad rattle/squeek from the rear hatch area. After some investigation I found that the left hand side of the glass hatch was touching bodywork in the closed position (badly aligned from the factory). I mentioned it to my dealer and they simply wound out the rubber buffers to fix the problem - which was not a fix as the hatch became very hard to close and the hatch edge was raised above the rest of the body work.

I fixed the problem myself by lossening the hinges of the rear hatch and adjusting the clearance between the hatch and the body work so that they didnt touch. Problem solved. When the hatch is adjusted so that there is equal clearance on both sides you only have 1-2mm clearance (good design that one) so it takes a bit of effort to achive the clearances.

A few weeks ago I noticed a new rattle from the back of the car and I found the LH side of the hatch was touching the body work again. It must have moved over the years. As a temporary fix I have wound out the buffers again until I can raise the energy to align the hatch again.

Post #502961 Tue Aug 16 2016 12:31pm
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