Hi all
Ive had a full size RR TD6 for 6 years now and want a change, so looking at the 4.2 SC Sports, as I only do about 1500 miles a year, so consumption isnt an issue.

Are there any buyers guides on here, or lists of things to check please? I know my way around the full sized RR's and their common faults, just after something to go armed with when viewing some Sports

Thanks in advance

Welcome over Mr B.

There are many things to know, so the best thing is to get searching as much as possible - more useful info on Disco3 too. As with the FFRR, the petrol models generally give less grief, though there are plenty of non-engine specific issues anyway.

Buyers guide by Paddi here: http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...uide~0.pdf

Some more pointers to get you started (NB, sections of this is were aimed primarily at the TDV6 though):

Lost for Words wrote:

I'll try to go through some common/major issues. Bear in mind, a lot/most of these are mileage dependant. In no particular order:

Suspension components - they're heaavy cars and get through bushes very fast. It's only wear and tear but this can end up costing quite a lot. Correct alignment is also critical to prevent faults an irregular tyre wear.

Gearbox - the gearbox is very good and strong, BUT, unless it has been serviced, torque converter failure is almost inevitable. If left too long, the whole box can develop issues. In short, it's a great transmission, but fresh oil is key.

Battery and alternator - they aren't battery or alternator friendly. OE (Denso) alternators are a must. They're easy to replace on the TDV6 (a bit harder if fitted with ACE). The TDV8 is not as accessible.

ACE - if fitted, leaks can be expensive, and are not uncommon.

EGRs - a common failure on both the TDV6 and TDV8. I believe they can all be blanked, but I'm not sure of the specifics with the TDV8 (but I know it does require a software patch). On the TDV6, a software patch is required on 07MY vehicles onwards (EU4), but not on earlier ones (EU3). The patch is often applied at the same time as a remap.

Front to rear brake pipes - these corrode, and often need to be replaced. Flaring the pipes and fitting copper ones to the back section is the easiest/cheapest/best option.

Wheel and towbar thefts - the spare wheel and the removable towbars (if left in) can be easily and quickly stolen. Protection plates are available for the spare wheel. I'm imagining these are less likely to be an issue over there though, anyway.

MPG - just don't expect it to make anywhere near the official figures.

Turbo actuators - aside from general turbo failure, actuators can seize, casuing boost faults. This is a more common issue on lightly used vehicles in particular - so a potential consideration in your case.

HVAC - two common places for leaks are the condeser and the rear HVAC pipes (if fitted). AFAIK, the rear pipes can't be replaced without the body off. Blanking off the rear is an option should this occur.

Rear propshaft - it's quite common for the centre bearing to fail. Little sucess has been had replacing the bearing alone, so a new shaft is needed. Easy to replace, however.

Bluetooth - the bluetooth system is poor. A software update can help improve pairing issues or a D4/later RRS module can be fitted which improves sound quality too.

Navigation - there are no genuine updates available beyond the 2011/12 disc. Fakes are available, but links are not allowed on the site. The system is not great, but it is at leat built in and does work. I'm quite happy with it.

Front wheel bearings - a common failure at some point. Much less common since LR reduced the ridiculous 350Nm torque figure on the hub nuts. Again, pretty easy to change though.

Turbo hoses - they often split causing a lack of power and black smoke. Silicone replacements are recomended. In the case of the TDV6, the main hose is very easy to swap.

Brake switch and bulbs - the fomer should be considered a serviceable item. They fail causing transmision/HDC faults and limp mode etc. but are cheap and take 5 minutes to change. Failed or poor brake bulbs are also a common cause of HDC faults.

Suspension - the air suspension system can develop leaks. They don't happen all the time but can cause issues. The original Hitachi compressors also fail. When they do, a much improved AMK version can be fitted. Hight sensors are another culprit - you can by sets of them on Ebay from a LR dealer for £30 though.

Wheel nuts - locking nuts break (best binned) standard nuts swell. Replacements £3 from Advanced Factors.

Brakes - sliding pins can seize, and calipers too.

Cruise control switch loom - the loom behind the drivers airbag often brakes, causing loss of CC. Alternbatively it can be the switches or clockspring.

Glowplugs - these fail after a while and sometimes can have a habit of snapping when an attempt is made to remove them. This means the cylinder heads have to come of to replace them. Fitting a controller and using teh fuel burning heater (FBH) to pre-warm the engine can be a good alternative.

SRS - it's quite common for the wiring and connectors under the seats to cause the airbag light to come on. This is deosn't prevent it from working but can be difficult at MOT time.

OE Jack - do not use it; it's made of cheese and is unsafe. The wheel brace is useless too.

Parkbrake - you've probably heard horror stories about this. If it is kept well adjusted, it's absolutely fine. Should you get the dreaded "scream", stop using it immediately. Disco_Mikey has also written a guide on repairing the module should it need it.

Low pressure fuel pump - it's not unusual for this to fail, requiring the tank to be dropped and a new one fitted. A lot cheaper than the high pressure pump though, failure of which is rare.

TDV6 Oil pump - a weak version of the casing was fitted from 07MY to part way through 08MY (potentially on late 06MY too). The cam belt tensioner is attatched to it which breaks off, causing catastrophic engine failure. Mostly, it occurs after the cam belt is renewed (105k/7 years). It is therefore essantial that the pump is replaced at the same time. I understand such failure has occured on other versions too, but less so - a new oil pump is a good thing to have anyway.

These are just some of the things that spring to mind; there are other things I've forgotten, no doubt, and some more specific/unusal things. Please don't let it put you off though! As I say, most of them are mileage dependant, and many easily rectified. In addition, we're here to help when issues arise.

Good luck and enjoy.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

I have had a 2006 4.2 s/c for a little while.
The summary that Lost for Words provided is for a TV6 and 75% does not relate to a RRS 4.2 S/C. i.e. Turbo.
The suspension and electrical items may be the same but the engine and some of the brake items are different. I.e. Brembo Brakes on the 4.2s/c.
So far (its done 180000klms) there have been some weird minor electronic glitchs i.e radio /Cd/hands free not working at times and the hopeless Gps system compared with modern GPs's (Now fitted Navman in front of factory unit.)

I had the ZF gearbox flushed and refilled @ 150000klms as I have another SUV with the same gearbox and they are not 'sealed for life' as stated by one manufacturer.
Other than that my only other problem has been cracked rims. It had some 22" rims on it when I got it but they are not suitable for anything but Motoway type driving. Now got some genuine 20" rims and tyres.
There are most likely other things that others can add.
One I saw was draining and refiling the Supercharger oil. Any thing specific regarding the engine suggest talking to the Jag owners that run one as there seems to be more of them.
I really like the RRS s/c and isn't Diesel a dirty word in the UK ???

It's quite a bit more than 25% that applies and I did comment on that.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver