Hi,

i have a leak from the Hydraulic seal. Have ordered a new Anti-roll bar. Looking to fit myself at home.

Has anyone done this?
Advice on how and what to look out for.

Estimate time to do?
Removing hydraulic pipes...special tool required?
What about bleeding the Hydraulic afterwards?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Chilly

I believe it's a body off job - or at least a body lift-a-bit anyway. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Yes the ACE ARB Bush clamps have 3 bolts on each. And the rear one is imposible to get a socket onto it. So i think its a body lift job.  itisme

Just had a look at the manual. Assuming you have a 4.2S/C, I've extracted the procedure and put it here:
http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...0Sport.pdf

Doesn't need the body lifted but then they have special tools for the bush bolts. If you don't have those then you probably need to lift it slightly to get to the bolts as already noted. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Front or rear bar?

I was refering to my Front Bar, I understand the rear
one is quite easy.? But i haven't looked  itisme

Oops!
Should of stated:
TDV8 2008.
Front bar.

Undo ARB links
RH clamp needs removed fully
LH clamp needs the front 2 bolts out, and the crossmember removed
Undo pipes

And it will come out at that. However...
If you remove the LH lower wishbone from the chassis, it makes things so much easier

Allow a full day to replace

There is a diagnostic procedure to bleed the system, but I have heard of some just fitting the bar, top up the system, and throw it around a little to get the system working, then opening the bleed nipples to bleed

You make it sound so simple!  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Disco_Mikey wrote:

Undo ARB links
RH clamp needs removed fully
LH clamp needs the front 2 bolts out, and the crossmember removed
Undo pipes

And it will come out at that. However...
If you remove the LH lower wishbone from the chassis, it makes things so much easier

Allow a full day to replace

There is a diagnostic procedure to bleed the system, but I have heard of some just fitting the bar, top up the system, and throw it around a little to get the system working, then opening the bleed nipples to bleed

Well....started this morning. Followed Disco-Mickey advice. Definitely take wishbone off...so easier.

Would of finished easily in a day but got called to help new neighbours fix a water leak from their bathroom.

Just got to finish refitting the wishbone, links and a bleed to do.

Thank you Disco -Mickey for your advice.

Chilly

Just about to do this myself and am ordering all the parts.

Where are the bleed nipples? Haven't looked yet are the on the bar actuator itself? TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

would of what??

Uffe As a rule, I always resist temptations,
unless they are irresistible.
My Ride: 2006 RRS HSE TVD6 Java Black/Cherry Woods with HST factoryfitted pack.

Sorry fat fingers and small phone keyboard don't mix!

Anyone confirm the location for the bleed nipples for the front dynamic response anti roll bar please TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

The bleed nipples are on the ends of the big drum part of the anti roll bar. One at each end and they at the top between the bolts that holds the thing together. Not sure how you bleed it without LR's magic box though. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed