I am currently going through the process of trying to eradicate a knocking noise from my RR Sport HSE 2007 I was informed by a local garage that the front anti roll bar bushes required changing. So I have replaced the OSF bush and then tried to gain access to the NSF bolts, of which there are 3 holding the clamp on. Can someone let me know the trick in getting access to these bolts, as it looks like I may have to remove the prop shaft!!!!! Please say this isnt the case

I know there are some great detailed pictured guides on here but the one I found seemed to show the anti roll bar with only two bolts system in place.

Ta!

Someone will be along soon to help you but good luck  Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
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* 1949 80" in family since 1975

Yup, prop needs undone

OK, thanks for quick reply. How easy/difficult is taking off the prop. Do you know of a step by step thread on here that I could follow.

Ta! RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Any info, or pictures of course on how to get the prop shaft off the easiest way (if there is such a way) in order for me to access the three bolts on the passenger side to replace my anti roll bar bush. I believe this type of ACE anti roll bar bush with the three bolts is a bit trickier. Any takers  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Propshaft is held on with 6 bolts at either end.
Doesn't have to come right off the car, but makes things easier if you do. To do this, the crossmember needs unbolted, and lowered to give enough room to get the shaft out

Thanks DM but if I take six bolts off one end of the prop, are you sure that I will have enough room to move the prop out the way? If I go for taking the prop off altogether, what are the implications i.e. does it have anything that may fall out when I take prop out. Do I have to mark it so it goes back exactly how I take out.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

There is just enough room to get it out. It's easier if the shaft is right out the way. Undo the bolts, nothing to align or mark

Cheers DM I will give it a go sometime soon. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

sorry before I start here as its a different issue regarding changing my rear brake pads.

My rear brake pads are quite low ouch!! so have got new set to replace them, but as you can imagine the new pads are so much chunkier.

Now my question is... how do I open the calliper up or push the piston back in order for me to fit the new pads?

On occasion on previous cars I have done this on before I had to use a special tool to retract the piston back in.

Is it same method on my model/year RR. Or can the pistons be retracted back some other way... by brute force?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Pistons lever back. Be careful not to bend the slide pins

Great!! So take top of brake fluid reservoir then lever pistons apart, as you say no special tool required, should make this slightly easier. Cheers again  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Done and dusted over the weekend... rear pads/shoes on and adjusted... the decent weather made it not a bad job. No more horrible squealing EPB (for the meantime anyway) thanks for the help Disco_Mikey  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Hi,

any ideas regarding a diesel smell I have. I think you are aware or at least I think I have mentioned to you in the past that I have leaky injector 2 was very slightly leaking i.e. very small amount leaking from top of injector when engine ticking over, but I didn't think it may be enough for smell also I have noticed the fuel cooler radiator always seems to be wet when I go underneath.

1) what is directly above the fuel cooler that could be leaking diesel. Possible that the diesel from injector 2 is dripping down?

2) could the actual fuel cooler be leaking itself. On this note what are the four pipes connected to the fuel cooler?

3) the wet patches that I am assuming are diesel seem to be mostly on the drivers side of the engine when lying on the floor looking up... any other suspects i could check?

Cheers,
Derrek RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Hi DM,

Can you give me the best number to call you on to discuss bringing my RR to you?

Cheers RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8