Hi. I think I might get a seal kit and refurbish the suspension compressor / drier on the wifes 2005 RRSS.
The way I normally work under my cars (unless doing suspension work) is to drive up onto 4 ramps.
If I remove the compressor will the car drop onto the bump stops? Is that the way to do it or do the wheels need to be hanging? I think I read somewhere that a wheel has to come off- is that right?
Any tips welcome.

It shouldn't drop.

But yeah I think you need the rear wheel off to get the 2 large pipes out!

I always put axle stands under mine as the maintenance manual says the vehicle monitors level for hours after ignition off and can still self level after 3 hours (I think it was 3 but could have been longer). My thick skull is no match for the 3 ton sport. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I have the basic refurb kit for the Hitachi - filter, desiccant, piston ring.

What other bits do I need eg exhaust valve etc?

Thanks 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

I recently refurbished mine on a my2010, I put into off road height, removed the suspension relay, try it in off road height overnight to check that it has no leaks and does not lower any, then removed the cover for the compressor etc, removed the compressor and re built it all without removing the rear wheel, worst part was the top securing bolt removal, otherwise not too hard, pm me if you need any help 👍🏻👍🏻

An axel stand wouldn't go a miss !

Not much point in removing the relay.

As Paul says you do not need to remove any wheels.
Just ensure you put plenty of plusgas on the nuts bolts and pipe release flanges.
Did it on my previous RRS. Its fairly easy, just watch the YouTube vids first.
The only issue I had, was the body of the compressor was very oxidised near the drier, so I struggled to put the dryer back on without shearing the rubber washer.
Have you got the kit with a replacement drier lid? Sometimes the release flanges can break MY12 RRS HSE
Gone 4.2 supercharged RRS
Gone 90
Gone s2000

Last edited by shepp on Wed Jun 13 2018 7:29pm. Edited 1 time in total

After watching the YouTube videos, the biggest problem I would say is the air hose removal, if it looks like they won’t remove easily by pulling the collar back, you might need to cutt and use joiners on the plastic hoses, if you do it on a Saturday and have problems look for a local hydraulic hose repair company like pirtek etc as they will probably have the plastic joiners and pipe, or pre order a kit off eBay, I brought a kit with a new alloy air dryer lid to replace, follow the videos that the kit suggests and should go well 👍🏻👍🏻

Ah ha! I may not have to do the refurb.
I just put my code reader on it and it has 'C1A33-01 intermittent' on the fault list. Rear left corner valve apparently.
If anyone can shed any lighy on this please do so..

The rear valve is much more difficult to do !

Its on the same side as compressor.

I think ppl recommend removing the spare wheel to gain access.

Usually a green pipe running to it

I can't remove the spare wheel.. I dont have one as thats where the LPG tank is..

Oh dear......

It can be done with the wheel off.
but its an absolute nightmare.

I guess you need to check the code and see if its a wiring fault (maybe elsewhere, connector wiring broke near rear wheel arch has been known) or plausibility (leak)

many roads lead to getting that rear wheel off though