On My RRS 2006 (55 Plate) 79k 2.7 TDV6 - the battery warning light on the dash came on yesterday 2 days after having a new battery fitted. I took it today to my Mechanic friend who tested the battery and also tested the alternator and it was charging the battery fine.

He also ran a diagnostics on the car and no fault codes came up

If anyone out there has had a similar problem or ideas what it could be, it would be really helpful

Many Thanks - Tony

The only thing I can think of is to double check the battery connectors are pushed all the way down on to the battery terminals, and they are on very tight.

What were the symptoms for having a new battery?

An RRS is a lot more complex than a normal car, and the charging system is also more advanced.
Ideally, you need someone who knows these cars inside out to diagnose properly.

Good chance it will need an alternator though, providing the battery has been fitted correctly

Symptoms were the usual mix of - special programs off, suspension fault car lowering, suspension fault maximum speed 30mph , park brake fault, suspension lights coming on and off , entering limp home mode, and a few more, new battery seems to have solved this, in for a new alternator today so I will post a bit later with results, in for a service next week LR Dealers and then Indie for a new Turbo.

Cheers - Tony

Fitted New Alternator - Pig to fit 6 hours - cured problem thank god !!!!

6 hours to fit an alternator to a TDV6?

Time to find a new garage

For a just few quid you can buy a digital voltmeter that plugs in the cigar lighter socket.

I wouldn't suggest having it in situ all the time. Best left in the glove box and on the occasion when and if something 'weird' occurs it could be plugged in to see the present battery voltage and, when the engine's running, whether the alternator picks the voltage up to a good charging level. Then turning on wipers, headlight, etc. to give it full electrical load will also tell you if the system can maintain a charging voltage.

Comparing the voltages overnight could also help you establish if the battery is 'holding' its charge.

These voltmeters may not be hugely precise but you would have readings that would be good enough for objective comparison.

Agree 100%, I have been using one of those plug in digital voltmeters in my cars for years.
A good investment.
Regards
Barryp  2017 Range Rover Sport TDV6 L494 SE Fuji White
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 L320 SE Fuji White Loved but GONE
2010 TRAKKA Motorhome Fiat Ducato GONE (What a dud, don't buy one)
2006 Discovery 3 SE TDV6 Automatic Chawton White/Ebony. Loved but GONE
2006 BMW X5 diesel White/Charcoal, Bought new, Gone after 12 years! Was Excellent.
Ex Member Range Rover Club NSW

Tony,
I had this problem also, my battery was fairly old, already in car when I got it, and it started throwing up similar dash fault codes, etc.
Took it in to my local independent specialist, they checked battery and alternator, and read all faults.
Then put car on full drain, heaters, wipers, radio, air on, tv's basically anything and everything.
Then switched all off, then checked again voltages and alternator recharge volts.
Left it overnight, and retested in morning after an hours tick over checking again all recharge rates and fault codes.
My alternator was fine just battery not taking charge as it should.
I put a new stop/start battery in, think it was around £200 ish for battery and fitting and diagnostics was free. Since then I've had no problems, so far.

change the alternator. 100%

@Tonycash27 and Disco_Mikey..

Well six hours is not that bad..

I guess that Tony did what I did when
my alternator went "zafizz"..

It took me about five hours to change mine,
had the car on axlestands, and with normal Tools,
plus two centigrades in the carport, and a lightbulb to give some
illumination..

It was a "pigjob", as the space under the car isn´t that great,
and with ACE, You have to loosen/lower the hudraulic pump
in order to get access to the alternator..

And mounting the alternator was a challenge, impossible angle,
no visibility, had to rig a bikemirror, to see in where the alternatormount was..

But really satisfying to get it done all by oneself..

Good job Tony..

Rgds

Uffe As a rule, I always resist temptations,
unless they are irresistible.
My Ride: 2006 RRS HSE TVD6 Java Black/Cherry Woods with HST factoryfitted pack.

An alternator on a non-ARC is under an hour

On one with ARC, it is around 2 hours. Its only an extra pulley, the tensioner, and the ARC pump to be removed, an extra 5 bolts...

All done from the front of the car. No need to jack it up or remove undertrays etc (unless you drop tools/bolts!)

I changed my alternator in a little over an hour, (maybe an hour and a quarter) never having done one before. Also, I did not have the tools to remove the viscous fan clutch, so had to improvise. I will definitely get the right tools before I tackle the cam belt. It is well worth getting them.

It looks like a daunting job, but is not nearly so bad once you get into it.

Adam..

Hello there. This is the first time that I have asked a question, but have followed the site with interest

On my 2007 RR sport the battery warning light came on when driving so I checked that the belt was still on and drove home, about 15 miles.

About 30 minutes after the car was parked I walked past and noticed an acrid/smoke smell and on lifting the bonnet identified it as coming from the alternator so disconnected the battery. This is not an uncommon problem according to the forum!

I have fitted a new Britpart YLE500400 alternator and new drivebelt. After getting the viscous fan off it took just around the hour to do. Thanks to the very clear guide in this section.

My dilemma is this. The output from the new alternator is 13.75 volts but the warning light stays on. I have cleaned and tightened the battery terminals. (Bosch 95a/h 4 years old but readings 12.4 volts so should be ok). I have spoken to someone who used to be a LR technician and he said that sometimes the car needs to go through a drive cycle before it recognises the new unit. I have driven round the block but the warning light stays on.

Any ideas please.

Britpart

Was it an "own brand" or a Denso unit?

The car does need to recognise it is being recharged again, normally the light goes out in around 60 seconds or so.

However, the battery needs to be in good health, and ideally, fully charged.

Not quite so common, but worthwhile checking, is the fuses in the engine bay. Cant remember which one, but it has been known for it to blow, causing the light to stay on