Does anyone know the symptoms if the Zf auto box in a rrs 2005 2.7 needs a oil change

The oil will need changing if it hasn't already been done on a 2005 car, is the simple answer. LR say it's ok for 150k miles but the manufacturer reckons less than half that at 50-75k miles or 8 years whichever is sooner.

There are no specific symptoms that the oil needs changing but there are symptoms that it has corrupted the torque converter lock up clutch. The usual symptom is a juddering under load - the so-called cattle grid effect.

The best way to change the oil is a "mega flush" where the transmission's oil cooler pipes are re-routed to connect to a machine that replaces all of the oil. The usual LR method of draining the oil from the drain plug doesn't get much oil out as most is held in the torque converter. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

I notice that your in Northamptonshire, can you tell me where I can get my RRS gearbox oil changed as I’m I northants as well ,thanks

I use an independent garage down near Oxford as I do a lot of work down that way so it suits me to be able to drop it off and pick it up from them.

https://www.james-french.co.uk/

From Northampton, it's not a bad run down to them if you can't find anyone nearer. A43, M40, A34, A40, a short bit of local roads. About an hour.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/52.22262...!3e0?hl=en

 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Try Ric he is brilliant with rrs ,and his prices are good.His garage is off Washbrook Road Rushden,turn left at the disabled shop,he’s on the right good luck Chris

Ok thanks for that .

RRSTDV8 wrote:

The usual LR method of draining the oil from the drain plug doesn't get much oil out as most is held in the torque converter.

When I did my X5 transmission service I did it twice within a week. First one was drain and filter replacement and the second was just drain and refill.
Before the service it was juddering like crazy and skipping in and out of drive when cruising at 40- 60mph. The car had done 150k at that time.
It's been fine since and that was 5 years ago.

insiorc wrote:

I recently attended a Lubrication Appreciation course for my work, ....

What ever you do Dont let Work see this thread,

they will realize just how much you have absorbed and taken away from the course and get you booked in on some more

 Porsche Cayenne 2022
gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
gone Corris Grey HSE Dynamic 2016
gone Ipanema HSE lux 2010
gone Rimini HSE 2005
!!

I’m all for doing it myself but found that I’m getting a bit lazy these days , I’ve carried out full engine rebuilds and auto box rebuilds in the past plus looking after all of our cars for many years, but not so much now that I’ve just retired from fixing very large aeroplanes, but I might just look at doing this when the weather clears up .

Ian Bodsworth is fairly regularly round these parts and can do a mega flush for you 2012 SDV6 HSE (technically its hers)
2000 D2 TD5 - definitely mine
2005 D3 V8
Metalian Camper trailer for adventures

riverblanche wrote:

insiorc wrote:

I recently attended a Lubrication Appreciation course for my work, ....

What ever you do Dont let Work see this thread,

they will realize just how much you have absorbed and taken away from the course and get you booked in on some more

A very good point The topic was limited in benefit to what I do at work, I was there just to make up numbers as it was a set price regardless of numbers attending so I really only paid attention to what I thought relevant for my personal life with vehicles and old tractors

P.s. anybody here always leave a blob of grease on the grease nipple after greasing, or always fit a new/clean one for the actual grease pumping? It was scarey the damage caused to a bearing etc. when pumping a spec of rust through from a 'cleaned' rusty grease nipple.  13MY Range Rover Sport Autobiography SDV6 - mine
14MY Range Rover Evoque Dynamic SD4 Black Pack - wife's
99MY Defender 90 TD5, Soft Top Conversion - my toy, and bairns favourite

My 06 2.7 is also suffering from cattle grid effect. It only seems to occur once the grearbox has warmed up (the first 5 minutes of driving it doesn't happen). I've tried putting the cruise control on at 43-45mph and the rev counter appears steady. Has anyone used Avenger 4x4 or Planet Gears in Peterborough? The cars done 128 k with no history. For obvious reasons I don't want to be pushed down the gearbox / torq converter rebuild route when a simple oil change would do. The cars not worth a Kings ransom and would like a truthful diagnoses.

[quote="insiorc"]

RRSTDV8 wrote:

One being that a partial oil change can have a huge positive impact on the oil quality, it's to do with refreshing the additive pack, the filter should be rated to ensure the floating particle size is kept below the damaging size....apparently. While a full flush is obviously the better choice I don't think we should be so quick to dismiss the partial change.

I have just had a FULL flush carried out on my gearbox at RJ Land Rover in Sawtry and it fixed the 'cattle grid' rumbling 100%. I was very pleased with their honesty and service. It took about 5 hours whilst I wait. It cost £660, however this seems alot cheaper than a full torque converter / gearbox rebuild. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts. The only thing to note is that I had been proactive in getting it fixed and I would imagine that many people would have just carried on driving for a lot longer.