Range Rover, with the ratchet noise it clicks slowly at low speeds, clicks faster and faster as you accelerate. If you wind the window down you can't hear it outside so I think it's a noise that's amplified rather than is just loud. It disappears on long sweeping corners at speed, it even does it if you roll down a hill in neutral. Any thoughts would be helpful?!
sounds just like a ratchet coming from the centre console its done 48,000 sound like transfer box area its defiantly a click lot shaper sound than a cv sound like a half inch ratchet spun
thanks Stephen

Last edited by stephen2045 on Mon May 18 2015 3:51pm. Edited 1 time in total

Wheel bearing? I had a front one go & it was more of a groaning hum...

CV joint on half shaft. Probably has (or had at some point) a split gaiter and that's allowed grease out / water in. Had the same thing on mine.

Get it sorted sooner rather than later. If it fails it will basically immobilise you. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Small stone in brake/wheel system or ABS ring.
I would whip the wheels off and have a look or at least jack it up of the ground and spin them.

Hi thanks broke a cv on a disco 3 last year, sure its not that. Thanks, it's a real head scratch,
I used to run a land rover garage. Lost with this one Done 15 miles noise is the same,
just starting to wish it would brake so I can just work out what it is. if it had a speed cable wood swear it was that.

Since you think it's around the transfer box, have you checked the propshaft joints ? 2008 G4 RRSport TDV8 current
2009 TDCi 90 current
2018 Discovery 5 HSE lux current
1994 Dakar current

by coincidence I was about to post a similar observation about my recently purchased car. Mine is a ratchet sound as well, and sounds louder with the windows closed. I think for me the sounds appears to be coming from the front offside wheel area. I've tried spinning the wheel when jacked up but can't hear anything, but then it's hard to spin it at any real speed. Taking the wheel off and having a look around I can't see anything obvious.

The difference with mine is that the sound comes in at about 5mph and stops by about 10mph, it does not then re-appear unless I stop and start off again, i.e. doesn't make the noise when slowing. It also doesn't make any noise if I just let it roll down a hill in neutral.

Its hard to know where to start really.

I had a clicking sound coming from front driver wheel - started at slow speed , increased with speed. Louder when turning one way - shop did not think it was bearing - but I had them change it anyway ... Fixed the problem ... Doesn't sound exactly like your issue - but point was experienced shop couldn't diagnose it as bearing - but since it could be anything else - I chnaged it and that fixed issue

Whilst I still don't know what's actually wrong with mine, it seems like changing a wheel bearing is cheap enough for me to do, most likely cheaper than getting a garage to offer an opinion. Does it make sense to change the CV joint whilst I'm at it ? I've read a few places about this also as a possibility. I figure if I'm dismantling things I might as well swap any suspect items whilst I'm at it.

Regards,
Ian.

solved the problem, the plastic clip on top of the fuel tank had broken (the one that holds the cable for the emergency handbrake release) the cable had dropped and was catching the bolts on the prop shaft. It was directly above the prop shaft so you couldn't see it, the only way I worked it out was the bold heads were shiny.
Thank you for all your help and ideas . just need to work out why keys keep un sinking with the car now, they don't seem to charge up so won't lock/unlock the car.
Thanks
Stephen

that's a nice cheap fix - well done for tracking it down.

If your key fobs are not working consistently it could be that the battery in both is at the end of life and won't accept a charge. If you search this site and the Disco3 site you will find a number of 'How to's' on changing the battery.

The trick is to order the correct batteries - can be found on eBay quite cheaply and then very very carefully prise apart the fob case without damaging it so that you can unsolder the old battey from the printed circuit board and solder in the new one. The only glue that worked for me to stick the two halves of the fob case back together was superglue.

If you ruin the fob case then empty shell replacements can be found on eBay and some forum users have reported they are fine although there seem to be differences in quality from different suppliers. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE