So after a long time lurking on here and other LR forums, i've finally taken the plunge and bought a RRS. It's a 55 plate HSE, which is more or less standard, except for some side steps.
(I will take some pictures and post them here, asap).
It did take me a while to find on that I liked, and seemed suitable, partly because I wanted to make sure that I got one that had had money spent on it when it needed it, but also because I wanted a fair sized contingency fund should the need arise.

Having driven it back home on Saturday, plus some other driving around on any errand that I could invent, it hasn't revealed any flaws other than the ones I found when testing it.
The air suspension does it's thing without the compressor running out of puff, doesn't make any noises over bumps, brakes feel very good etc.
The only fault I spotted was the EPB, which threw a fault during the test, and made an awful noise. It managed to clear itself after 30 seconds, so when I get some spare time in the next few weeks I'll try adjusting it as per Bodsy's Brake Bible (cheers, Mate).

I'm slightly scared about jacking the blighter up, so I'll upgrade my trolley jack to the Clarke CTJ300G (3-tonne), and then stick every axle stand, brick, concrete block under it, before taking the rear wheels off !

......when jacking and placing stands, make sure you avoid the compressor - I've nearly put the jack there which would have been expensive

Well done Roger, i love the 'any errand I can invent to drive it'

I'd advise that you don't use the parking brake until you've had a chance to adjust it, otherwise it then gets expensive. Also, for the jack, dont get the QuickLift version of the Clarke trolley jack, it's made of cheese and will quickly twist in use...

All you need now are a few software updates to bring it right up to date.

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic40169.html Bodsys Brake Bible
Software Updates Contact me
RRS Timed Heat/Remote kits - Contact me
BAS Engine Re-maps/ EGR Blank EuIII and EuIV
Clock On The Dash/ SNOTM /3Flash / BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes read\ Gearbox Reset
See it HERE

Bodsy, "wilco" on the QuickLift jack, I noted your note in your PDF about it. Thanks again for that.

One question about it. When adjusting the handbrakes, is it really necessary to raise both rear wheels ?
Assuming it is, how did you do it, one side at a time, or what ?

Cheers.

There is a jacking point between the rear wheels in front of the spare wheel - there's a hole in the cross frame. The only problem is that the spare wheel gets in the way and the point is a long way up so you end up raising the jack on blocks before lifting. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

RogerDeFlor wrote:

Bodsy, "wilco" on the QuickLift jack, I noted your note in your PDF about it. Thanks again for that.

One question about it. When adjusting the handbrakes, is it really necessary to raise both rear wheels ?
Assuming it is, how did you do it, one side at a time, or what ?

Cheers.

Bodsy wrote:

Also, for the jack, dont get the QuickLift version of the Clarke trolley jack, it's made of cheese and will quickly twist in use...

the same brand jack is fine, but NOT the quicklift one. If your car moves (as is likely) whilst being jacked up, the trolley can twist. The quick part comes at a cost of rigidity.

quicklift Rated 3 tonnes... yes it is..... amazing what figures you can test in a lab environment. Personally I wouldn't trust it. It is better than the LR supplied jack of course, but only just.
You want to do the job safely, not quickly. If you compare them side by side, the time it takes the quicklift vs the time it takes the std clarke 3t trolley jack to lift to max is really only a second. I wouldn't risk it for a lousy second..... Bodsys Brake Bible
Software Updates Contact me
RRS Timed Heat/Remote kits - Contact me
BAS Engine Re-maps/ EGR Blank EuIII and EuIV
Clock On The Dash/ SNOTM /3Flash / BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes read\ Gearbox Reset
See it HERE