Yeah I’m driving it but only completely necessary journeys. It is rock solid, if I hit a pothole I’d do more damage I’m sure.

I found a hb4 51/55w bulb. Would that work? No idea why it has 2 power ratings on it

So assuming it is ok for the test let me just double check what I’m doing

Remove relay and bridge the 2 large holes so the circuit is complete
Unplug the compressor (typically I’ve just put this all back together and dropped the car down) lol
Bridge the bulb in the blown fuse holder
Plus I assume car ignition needs to be on?

So I’m hoping for the bulb to light up and then I check the compressor wiring loom wiggling it until the bulb goes out to get an idea of location of a damaged wire...... Won’t the bulb just blow like the fuse did?

yes you could use that bulb.

ignition off.

you could give it a go with the compressor plugged in still. If it makes some noise this is a good sign.


With the compressor disconnected you are hoping for the bulb to be off.

Ok I done that mate.

Light come on, wiggling of what wires I could get didn’t turn bulb off.

Noise at the compressor also. Got to say I can barely hear the compressor with the cover on, when cover was off it’s louder but it didn’t feel strong if that makes sense. Is that normal? I was expecting it to be louder or sound more powerful

Anyway that aside I guess I just need the fuse now to test further?

Cheers

that sounds good that the compressor makes a noise.

As you say, wait for the fuses to turn up, fit and start the engine.

The compressor will be quiet, as the bulb is restricting the current for safety. But the fact that is makes a noise is a good sign.

Ok. My impatience kicked in and I drove to Halfords to get a fuse!

Some good and some bad news. The compressor now is powering on and sounds much healthier than when testing however I’m still getting suspension fault on dash and it won’t raise up from access height.

I went home and plugged scanner in, cleared all codes and then scanned again. The only thing I’m getting now on the air suspension module is c1131 air supply. I guess it was never just going to be a fuse! Fingers crossed that holds and doesn’t go again.

What would be my best option now mate?

I really appreciate all your help so far

Pipe leaking by compressor ?

Or compressor not producing air ?

Need to run compressor again and see if it is producing air I guess

I’ve done a bit more reading about the recent code, I didn’t realise the compressor was a wear item. I’m nearly at 120k miles now so even if it’s not the fault throwing the code it’s likely due a change anyway. Also I plan to sell the car in the next 6 months as I’ve had it over 6 years, it will be a nice thing for the next owner to see it’s been replaced regardless.

So my plan is to buy a new compressor, fit that and at the same time check for any leaks in the system. And hopefully that will fix things. Does that sound like a good way to proceed? I thought the compressor would be much more expensive tbh.

Is it Easy to swap the compressor? And where are the likely places to find leaks other than around the compressor itself?

The front of my car is very very low but the rear looks like it’s has some air. My logic seems this could be the compressor is just not pumping hard enough to get air to the front but like I said I’m prepared to put a new one in anyway

Hitachi are the original make. If you can get one of them that is fine. Or Dunlop

AMK ones require a
Software reprogram and you can’t refit the cover. Like the one in the video you posted.

You can rebuilt old ones if you are good with your hands.
Eg new cap and piston

It raises the rear suspension first so sounds like it did pump some air in

Look at the video u posted to see how u Change it

Ok this now got strange.

I looked out of the window this morning and the rear of the car was back on the bump stops just like the front has been for weeks. I wasnt sure if it was normal for it to drop overnight and then go back up once you start car but if not I initially suspected a leak. So I went out to see if the rear would go back up and to my surprise both back and front went up all the way up to off road setting and didn’t even get a dash warning light! My first thought is the suspension fault would come on the dash after a few miles of driving so I put it back down into normal road setting and took it for a 10 minute drive, it was faultless. I don’t know what’s happened overnight but I like it! Maybe Andy k tracked me down, broke into my car in the middle of the night and fitted a new compressor? Lol

I’m sure this isn’t the end of this, I can’t have had all those issues, fault codes and a 60w fuse blow for no reason. I’ll report back with what happens next. The only thing I can think of is perhaps a blockage has cleared. I’m sure with Andy Ks diagnostic tips this thread will be super useful for other members too so a massive thanks has to go to him for his help

I am not completely surprised this happened.

Once all the air has gone, it does take time to blow it up again.

These cars do self level when parked, so it is possible the rear dropped to match the front height
It is also true as these cars get old, they do drop overnight, and pump up when started.

Anyway, if you have trouble again, you know to check the big fuse first.

Really? I’m very surprised

The dash warning light has been on for months, suspension fault, no special programs available or whatever it says on dash every time I drive the car within 5 mins so there’s been an underlying fault for months. It still went up and down though despite the dash warnings. The fuse must have blown more recently and that dropped the car on the bump stops and made the ride rock solid. I’m just surprised all of a sudden I’m getting no warnings on the dash. That said I’m not complaining but I doubt it’s the last of it. Wonder why that fuse blew

I really appreciate your patience and help mate, you’re knowledge is excellent, I now have a much better understanding too which is always good

Has the yellow dash light been on for weeks?

Yes. I ignored it as it still seemed to work ok going up
And down but no special programs were available

Drove it today and within 5 minutes the yellow light come back and usual dash warnings. It was always too good to be true.

Got home, scanned it and had 3 codes, c1131, u0416, c1a20

Cleared codes, only 2 come back after I started car and waited until the fault light come back on dash.

U0416, c1a20

C1a20, Pressure increase too low when filling I guess is either leak in system or weak compressor maybe?
U0416, invalid data received from control module I have no idea?

Slow filling is pointing to the compressor needing to be replaced. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed