I'm planning on changing the pads on MY14 RRS which has Brembo Calipers, What is the best way to push back in the piston?

Thank you

I just push brembos back normally, (although a bit of a game if you push one, one of the other 3/5 pop out ) but be interesting to hear what the others say.

Thin piece of wood and a G clamp? Steve.

Pushed back easily with a flat head screwdriver.

G clamp wont work on a Brembo Caliper.

Unfortunately one of the caliper pins seems to have seized and doesnt want to come out so had to get a push kit and spare fitting kit in case it doesnt come out in one piece.

Lets see how it goes...

On my Brembos, I had 2 flat bladed screwdrivers to lever each pad either side of the disc otherwise you can lever one back and the other moves out.
Once you get one far enough in you wedge something in there and then work on the other.
Might also be worth undoing the brake fluid reservoir cap to allow the fluid back up but wrap a bit of rag around it in case of any over spill. 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

I always push the pistons back in while they are in situ using a strong screw driver,as scrumps says,easier with bleed nipple slackened,I put a piece of rubber pipe on the nipple into a bottle,DONT get any brake fluid on the paint work as it will strip it in no time.

Andy Andy.
21 Ford Ranger
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2014 RRS SC Santorini
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2014 RRS AB Fuji
2012 RRS Red Edition Fuji
2015 Nissan Navara
2012 RRS SE Santorini
2008 RRS White
2007 RRS Santorino

Thanks for the input guys. Appreciated. Unfortunately I managed to break my locking wheel nut key so have to wait until that is sorted before doing the front pads.

Scrumpy wrote:

Might also be worth undoing the brake fluid reservoir cap to allow the fluid back up but wrap a bit of rag around it in case of any over spill.

The caps aren't air tight as the system wouldn't work very well.

But removing the float gives a bit more room for the extra fluid to go. (while you work on the car) and you can access how close it is to over flowing easily.

Thanks for the advice guys.

I have now fitted the new pads, new sensor and used a new fitting kit (See Pic).

However it seems I got air into the system 🙁. All I did was loosen the nipple on the front of the caliper (There is also one on the back of the caliper). I attached a pipe to the nipple and feed into a bottle. When pushing back the pistons I gathered around 500ml of brake fluid. I then had a low brake fluid warning on the car so then topped up the brake fluid back to the max level. The brake pedal is spongy and goes all the way down, every time.

Do I have to bleed the whole system or just the front calipers?
On the brembo front calipers, Is it correct to bleed the rear nipple first then the front one?

Had anyone used a Gunson Eezibleed on a RRS?

 MY14 RRS Autobiography Dynamic - Loire Blue - 2 Tone Leathers - Rear Screens - Deployable Steps - Soft Close Doors - Dual View - 360 Surround Cameras

To be honest, I’d never touch the bleed nipples unless I was bleeding the system. Now you have air, all you need to do is the fronts. If you have 2 people it makes it easier but a kit will work fine. Is this the first time you have bled brakes? 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
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1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

For whatever reason L/R do say to loosen bleed screw to retract caliper pistons on Brembos at least on the RRS1, however there is no mention of having to do it on the RRS2.

1. WARNING: Do not use compressed air to clean brake
components. Dust from friction materials can be harmful if
inhaled.
Clean the components.
2. Inspect the caliper piston seals for damage.
3. Position a bleed jar containing a small quantity of approved
brake fluid. Connect the bleed tube to the bleed screw and
loosen the screw.
4. Press the pistons into the caliper housing.
Tighten the bleed screw to 19 Nm (14 lb.ft).
5. Repeat the above process for the other 3 pistons.
6. Disconnect the bleed tube and remove the jar.
7. Apply grease LR020972 (Molykote CU7439 plus) to
the areas indicated on the brake pads.

Cheers
Col

I definetly regret touching the bleed nipples. I used a kit called Eezibleed which works well. But it was a hard job jacking and removing all 4 wheels (22” are to heavy). I started with the rear calipers and moved on to the fronts. Took me about 3 hrs. Yes it was my 1st time. At least its done. Thanks guys. MY14 RRS Autobiography Dynamic - Loire Blue - 2 Tone Leathers - Rear Screens - Deployable Steps - Soft Close Doors - Dual View - 360 Surround Cameras

Strange that! I changed the pads on my Brembos but didn't touch the bleed nipples.
I guess LR say they should be loosened to allow any air in the system to escape but if there was no air in there in the first place I didn't see the point and it was relatively easy and straigtforward. 2016 RRS SVR Estoril Blue
2005 4.2L Supercharged Java Black - gone but was my first love.
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If we all point our RR's in the same direction and accelerate at the same time can we turn back time?

I guess so much fluid is stored in the caliper, that it would over flow the tank, and hence they say loosen nipples.