Hello,

I've recently (April) purchased a 2010 Range Rover Sport HSE (Facelift) 3.6 TDV8 which is a brilliant car but has had the dreaded shimmy / vibration under braking since I got it. I've done a reasonable amount of remedial work myself & other garages and I've still got the problem so I'm looking for some advice where to go next! Here's what's been done so far:

- New Front Brake discs & pads (Brembo) - about 4000 miles ago (did seem to cure the issue initially) - DIY Job
- New Front Lower suspension arm - passenger side - about 3000 miles ago - Garage
- New Front Driver side wheel bearing - last weekend - DIY Job
- Doing Front Passenger side wheel bearing - this weekend
++ EDIT 15/09 - Wheels were balanced before all of the above work to within an inch or their life!

It's worth adding that you only really feel it during braking, it got considerably worse when towing a caravan through Europe this summer and has since remained at the same severity after removing the caravan. It's now almost a full on knocking when braking from upwards of 60mph but you won't really notice it at below 30mph.

It's got the 22" Overfinch wheels on it as well so that amplifies any of the vibration without a doubt.

Any thoughts where I go next if the passenger side bearing doesn't cure it?

Help please

Cheers,
Dunc.

Last edited by DuncanM2017 on Fri Sep 15 2017 12:25pm. Edited 1 time in total

Certainly sounds like a warped disk, I had mine skimmed while still on the car and made a huge difference. The hills in the south of France seemed to make mine worse, the heating and cooling. 2018 Telsa MS
2012 Range Rover Sport HSE+
1990 Porsche 944
1985 LR 90 Soft top V8

Tyre pressures, wheel balancing and suspension alignment will all have an effect too.

My TDV8 suffers from braking vibration at about 50-70mph, it's worse if lightly braking. I find that when it does it, a check of tyre pressures finds one or both fronts not right. A bit of air and it sorts it out. No idea why although the tyres are fairly worn now so maybe that has something to do with it. I know I need new front lower arms too. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Reading the OP - only the passenger side front lower arm replaced?

That sounds ill advised since it will have induced a difference between the front suspension bushes. I'd want them both changed together.

So-called disc warping is possible - when you fitted them did you clean up the hub faces VERY thoroughly (i.e. back to bright metal) and check for run out? Typically discs with excess run out will be OK for the first 1k miles and then the shimmy on braking starts.

Did you fit OE parts or pattern parts? Quality of some pattern parts is poor and may cause shimmy. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Yes, only passenger side as the garage said that was the only one that was fooked! I shall get it changed ASAP then is there a major difference between OE arms and the genuine LR ones? I've been told to stick to genuine LR for the arms?

Yes was very particular about taking the hub surface back to shiny metal face before fitting discs on both sides, parts were from Euro Car Parts and were genuine Brembo discs & pads (which is original fit??).

Didn't put a DTI gauge on it to be fair either after fitting or recently, might be worth checking and then getting them skimmed again once all the hub & arm work is out of the way.

Re the arms; best keep them both the same so if genuine was fitted to the nearside then go with same on the offside. There is a lot of love for the Lemforder arms that Advanced Factors supply but I've not used them myself.

Brembo discs and pads on my vehicle and no problems at all can't say if they are same as original fitment.

Garages round here charge about £100 per axle for on the car skimming so really not much cheaper than fitting new discs annoyingly. Not sure if skimming fixes so-called disc warp though. If you Google the subject there are explanations of how the discs don't warp but in fact it is a physical change to parts of the braking surface. Look up 'cementite'.

If you work through the suggestions from all the above posts should get it solved. Best of luck. 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

You seem to have done a lot of work on the front brakes etc but nothing at the back. Just picked mine up today after the parking brake sized on the morning we were going on holiday!. They couldn't get the discs off,, even after cutting the cables, just cost me for new module, new rear discs, shoes / pads etc. They did say calipers were sticking but they managed to clean them up and free them off. I did mention that I had been getting vibration under breaking,,, this might have been a factor. Was also recommended to take rear discs off and clean properly at each service as apparently they get so dirty they size which is half the cause of parking brake issues 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

I specifically get rear discs removed and park brake shoes cleaned out on every service  Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975